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Advice from industry professionals and a place for all your pest control needs.



Showing posts with label insect damage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label insect damage. Show all posts

Ant Season Is Here!

First a word of caution.


Many pest control professionals consider Carpenter ants the most difficult pest there is to deal with in the industry. With all the training and experience they have, there are some homes that take considerable time and a number of treatments to completely eradicate these destructive insects. Many homeowners will call in a professional after they have failed to solve the problem themselves. This situation is usually more difficult to deal with because the homeowner randomly sprayed pesticides killing the obvious evidence and scattering the satellite nests. Of course this increases the cost. If you are not prepared to spend hours in your attic and crawl space wearing a respirator, rubber gloves, coveralls and a hat, then you may be wise to call a professional to do the job properly.

The process:


Find all of the Satellite nests in the home. (Read about nests on the identification and life cycle page)
Try to locate the "mother" nests and the queens.
Eliminate conditions that made the home a suitable habitat for the ants.
Treat the satellite nests with a suitable pest control method or product.

Don't:

Don't spray pesticides on ants outside the nests. Use a vacuum cleaner inside your home.
Don't use "ant drops, ant poisons, ant traps". Save your money for something worthwhile.
Don't squash foraging ants. Follow them.
Don't rip apart walls or ceilings to find the nests.

How to:

Finding carpenter ant nests requires a lot of time an patience. With years of experience, a professional will know where these nests are likely to be and will look for evidence of frass, the junk thrown out of nests. This is often caught up in spider webs in attics, crawl spaces, basements under decks and around the exterior perimeter under the soffits and below the siding. Sometimes sawdust excavated by the ants from the structure will be noticeable, but not always.


Following ants outside the nest is the best indication of it's location, but ants will often follow channels hidden from the hot sun, rain and your vision. Less than 10 % of the population will ever leave the nests so at times there are very few to follow. Knowing whether the ant you are following is heading for food, or has already eaten and is heading back to the nest is an indicator that some very experienced professionals are capable of seeing.

Listen for them. If your hearing is good and the home is very quiet you may be able to hear the rustling and chewing noise they make. A medical stethoscope is useful but the sound of a refrigerator or even a clock can confuse the inexperienced ear.


How to find the main nests (and the queens):


In some locations it would be impossible to find all the main nests among the trees, logs, stumps, buried wood and roots. Even if these nests are found, removing them can be a monumental task. All satellite nests remain in contact with the main nest. Workers can be seen carrying mature larvae from the overcrowded queen's home to new or established satellites of the colony. If you find the main nest, try to remove it physically. If you put toxic products into it, they may leach into the ground water and contaminate water supplies or fish habitat some distance away.

If you can not remove the nest, try to eliminate any favorable conditions that encourage them to move toward the home. Tree branches, fences, garden hoses, structural wood touching the soil, landscape ties and utility wires all provide an easy route to follow. A very fine dusting of diatomaceous earth around the perimeter base of the home will discourage all insects from crossing it to gain entry. This is short term and should be repeated frequently in the spring, summer and fall.


Pesticides, Poisons and Secret Formulas.

Toxic Sprays: Most pesticides available to the public will kill any insect that they come in contact with while still wet. Once dry, the residual effect is minimal and has very little effect on insects.

Ant Dusts: Diatomaceous earth is sold in a variety of containers with convincing trade names. The basic product can also be purchased in much less expensive plain plastic bags at most garden stores.

Toxic chlorpyrifos is now off the market and illegal to use in Canada and U.S.A.

Boric Acid dust: It is very difficult to inject into a nesting cavity without proper equipment. Do not put it in exposed areas.

Ant Poisons sold over the counter at most hardware stores have little if any effect on carpenter ants

Ant Traps are actually not traps. The little tin cans with holes in the side contain borax. They have no effect on carpenter ants.

Secret Formulas: If you find one that works, patent it immediately. Scientists around the world have been searching for years for ingredients that will attract and kill or repel carpenter ants. Some things that homeowners have tried include cinnamon, cayenne pepper, moth balls, boric acid and icing sugar.

None of them have been proven effective.







Disclaimer: This web page was compiled by a pest management professional, not an entomologist.

As a result, some of the terms used may not be accurate according to scientific terms of reference.
Our objective is to provide basic and interesting information for the average homeowner.

Termite Removal





TERMITE FACTS


Termites cause more damage than tornadoes, hail storms,
wind storms, and hurricanes combined.

Termites cost Americans more than $1 billion each year.

You can buy insurance for many sources of home damage,
but not for termites.

Termites have been around for more than 240 million years.

They adapt to ever changing environments. Termites are
natures way to break down wood and return it to the soil.

Termites can not determine the difference between the wood
in the forest where your home was built and the wood
members of your home.

Termites can infest almost every part of your home.

Termites can enter your home through a crack or opening
as thin as a piece of paper.

Termites never stop working and eating. They work 24 hours a day.

Termite colonies can average more than a million termites.



MAINTENANCE TIPS TO HELP REDUCE TERMITE INFESTATIONS

1) If you live in an area where termites are a known problem, we recommend that you have your home inspected for termites once each year and before buying a home, or prior to selling a home.

2) Avoid wood to ground contact such as wood siding (6 inches minimum clearance between wood siding and the soil).

3) Wood decking built on the soil surface or wood members in contact with the soil should be treated.

4) Excessive moisture under or adjacent to the structure. AC condensate drain line draining next to the foundation or poor
surface drainage. AC condensate drain line should drain at
least 5 feet from the foundation. Poor surface drainage should be improved. Use the advice of a professional in this area due to the possibility of causing foundation and or drainage problems.

5) Foliage growing next to and/or on the structure (Vines and shrubs are common problems) should be trimmed back and away from the structure..

6) Wood pile adjacent to the structure should be removed.

7) Wood fence in contact with the structure should have at least 6 inches of clearance or be treated.

8) Wood used in and over foundation expansion joints should be removed and the joints treated.

9) Tree branches contacting the structure should be cut back from the structure..

10) Wood form boards left in place around the foundation should be removed or treated.


Although termites are famous for their ability to eat wood, causing damage to wooden structures and recycling cellulose in the soil, they are unable to digest the wood that they eat. To break down the cellulose, termites enlist the help of a variety of microorganisms. Some termites, for example, dig tunnels in the wood, and then inoculate the tunnels with fungi that grow on the wood. These termites then eat the fungi, not the wood itself.


Termite Control

Eliminate all contact between the soil and all wood members that are part of the building. This is a highly labour intensive task with very little material costs involved.

Remove all scrap wood from the premises. Provide access (if necessary) under porches and clear out any debris. Avoid storing firewood on the ground. Pile logs away from the building on a raised platform made of concrete or other suitable material.

Basements and underfloor crawlspaces should be ventilated to control dampness. Spaces under decks and orches should also be ventilated.

Eliminate any contact with wood members and the concrete basement floor. Any water penetration through the foundation where there are wood floors or partitions nearby should be rectified immediately.

Ensure that surface water is channeled away from the foundation wall. This is achieved by sloping ground/walkways/patios, etc. away from the house for the first four feet.

Maintain eavestroughs and down spouts. If down spouts discharge on grade, extensions should be added to divert rain water away from the house.

Review roof coverings and flashings annually. Plastic roofing cement should be used to repair any minor faults that have developed.

The exterior wall assembly should be inspected annually. Any faults in the wall covering should be repaired immediately. Caulking should be used at all joints of dissimilar materials.

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