Wasp Warnings & How to Exterminate Them

A Wasp Warning

by Zeroflex

Aug 15/10

As we enter the dog days of summer and the overnight temperatures remain greater than the day time highs of April and May, it is important to note that temperature affects wasps just as it does humans. The later in the season it gets and the hotter it is, the more aggressive they become.

To compound the problem, that once baseball sized nest in May has now grown to basketball or even beach ball size and has gone from a population of a few dozen to a few hundred or more. What seemed in the Spring as a few docile black and yellow pollinators buzzing about the garden, have become nothing short of warriors defending their nest with kamikaze like attacks on anything threatening.

When a wasp stings it leaves behind a pheromone marker letting the others know where to attack. Multiple stings can be life threatening to anyone even if you are not allergic. If you get stung within the vicinity of a nest it would be wise to leave the area quickly.

So What Now?

Chances are that if you haven't exterminated the nest by now, it's probably not in an area that poses any danger to humans and can be left to die on its own (which they do every Autumn anyway).

However, if the nest is in an area where it poses a threat to human safety, it must be exterminated and you can do it yourself with these tips. (If you are at all nervous about this or your palms are sweating just thinking about it, it would be best to hire a professional exterminator because the margin for error is thin and the results could potentially be catastrophic)

Nest Extermination

If you can not see the actual nest but rather a hole where the wasps are going in and out of (eg. soffit of the roof or wood siding) it is best to call an exterminator because this can be more involved.

If you can see the nest and it's within reach you're already half way done!

It is important to know that I am a professional exterminator and this is the method and techniques I use on most wasp nests but your situation may differ.

Step One: Observing The Enemy
From a safe distance just stand for a few minutes observing the flight path of the wasps as they fly in and out of the nest as if they were using an invisible runway. Never stand in the flight path!

Step Two: Approach With Caution
Approaching the wasp nest from the back side of it is always best as this will put you out of the flight path. If the rear is not accessible approach from the side that gives you the best escape route should you need it.

Step Three: A Time To Kill
How close you should get depends on how much activity there is around the nest. (Once treatment begins there will be an explosion of wasp numbers and at this point there's no turning back). Only get as close as you need to.

I use a Pyrethrin based aerosol can with the red straw attached. The can is attached to a pole (There is a special tool for this but an extendable pole, some tape and a length of string will allow you to make your own) so you can treat the nest from a safer distance.

This is the one I use

Some folks like to treat the entry hole of the nest but I don't. I make my own hole by puncturing the nest at the top with the red straw and fill it with aerosol until the nest is saturated and then clearing the area. You're done!

Successful elimination of all wasps will occur within the next 24 to 48 hours. If activity remains after 48 hours a second treatment is necessary.


A final word:
Time of day, temperature, weather conditions and actions of the exterminator are all factors in the decision of when and how to eliminate a wasp nest. Under ideal conditions this job is done just before dawn or just after dusk when it is cool and clear outside.

In the real world as a professional it rarely if ever happens that way. This is not meant to be a comprehensive guide but rather a view into how a professional exterminator eliminates a wasp nest.

Ant Season Is Here!

First a word of caution.

Many pest control professionals consider Carpenter ants the most difficult pest there is to deal with in the industry. With all the training and experience they have, there are some homes that take considerable time and a number of treatments to completely eradicate these destructive insects. Many homeowners will call in a professional after they have failed to solve the problem themselves. This situation is usually more difficult to deal with because the homeowner randomly sprayed pesticides killing the obvious evidence and scattering the satellite nests. Of course this increases the cost. If you are not prepared to spend hours in your attic and crawl space wearing a respirator, rubber gloves, coveralls and a hat, then you may be wise to call a professional to do the job properly.

The process:


Find all of the Satellite nests in the home. (Read about nests on the identification and life cycle page)
Try to locate the "mother" nests and the queens.
Eliminate conditions that made the home a suitable habitat for the ants.
Treat the satellite nests with a suitable pest control method or product.

Don't:

Don't spray pesticides on ants outside the nests. Use a vacuum cleaner inside your home.
Don't use "ant drops, ant poisons, ant traps". Save your money for something worthwhile.
Don't squash foraging ants. Follow them.
Don't rip apart walls or ceilings to find the nests.

How to:

Finding carpenter ant nests requires a lot of time an patience. With years of experience, a professional will know where these nests are likely to be and will look for evidence of frass, the junk thrown out of nests. This is often caught up in spider webs in attics, crawl spaces, basements under decks and around the exterior perimeter under the soffits and below the siding. Sometimes sawdust excavated by the ants from the structure will be noticeable, but not always.

Following ants outside the nest is the best indication of it's location, but ants will often follow channels hidden from the hot sun, rain and your vision. Less than 10 % of the population will ever leave the nests so at times there are very few to follow. Knowing whether the ant you are following is heading for food, or has already eaten and is heading back to the nest is an indicator that some very experienced professionals are capable of seeing.

Listen for them. If your hearing is good and the home is very quiet you may be able to hear the rustling and chewing noise they make. A medical stethoscope is useful but the sound of a refrigerator or even a clock can confuse the inexperienced ear.

How to find the main nests (and the queens):

In some locations it would be impossible to find all the main nests among the trees, logs, stumps, buried wood and roots. Even if these nests are found, removing them can be a monumental task. All satellite nests remain in contact with the main nest. Workers can be seen carrying mature larvae from the overcrowded queen's home to new or established satellites of the colony. If you find the main nest, try to remove it physically. If you put toxic products into it, they may leach into the ground water and contaminate water supplies or fish habitat some distance away.

If you can not remove the nest, try to eliminate any favorable conditions that encourage them to move toward the home. Tree branches, fences, garden hoses, structural wood touching the soil, landscape ties and utility wires all provide an easy route to follow. A very fine dusting of diatomaceous earth around the perimeter base of the home will discourage all insects from crossing it to gain entry. This is short term and should be repeated frequently in the spring, summer and fall.


Pesticides, Poisons and Secret Formulas.

Toxic Sprays: Most pesticides available to the public will kill any insect that they come in contact with while still wet. Once dry, the residual effect is minimal and has very little effect on insects.

Ant Dusts: Diatomaceous earth is sold in a variety of containers with convincing trade names. The basic product can also be purchased in much less expensive plain plastic bags at most garden stores.

Toxic chlorpyrifos is now off the market and illegal to use in Canada and U.S.A.

Boric Acid dust: It is very difficult to inject into a nesting cavity without proper equipment. Do not put it in exposed areas.

Ant Poisons sold over the counter at most hardware stores have little if any effect on carpenter ants

Ant Traps are actually not traps. The little tin cans with holes in the side contain borax. They have no effect on carpenter ants.

Secret Formulas: If you find one that works, patent it immediately. Scientists around the world have been searching for years for ingredients that will attract and kill or repel carpenter ants. Some things that homeowners have tried include cinnamon, cayenne pepper, moth balls, boric acid and icing sugar.

None of them have been proven effective.







Disclaimer: This web page was compiled by a pest management professional, not an entomologist.

As a result, some of the terms used may not be accurate according to scientific terms of reference.
Our objective is to provide basic and interesting information for the average homeowner.

Bed Bug Extermination Guide

Bed bugs - what are they?
Bed bugs have an oval broad, flat body and a short, broad head. Shaped similar to an apple seed, unfed adults are around 6 to 10 mm long and brown and wingless. After feeding, they swell slightly in size and darken to a blood-red colour. The nymphs are shaped like the adults, but are yellow-white in colour.

Itchy welts on skin and/or black or brown spots on mattresses sheets, bed frames or walls often indicate that there is a bed bug infestation.

Bed bugs are also known by several names: wall louse, house bug, mahogany flat, red coat, crimson ramblers as well as others.

The bed bug eggs are white, about 1 mm long (1/25 inch), and are almost impossible to see on most surfaces. The female bed bug lays at least 200 eggs in her lifetime, at a rate of about two or four per day. The eggs have a sticky coating and are deposited in cracks and crevices, behind woodwork and similar hidden locations. They usually hatch in six to 17 days.

Newly hatched nymphs feed as soon as food is available. A bed bug goes through five moults before it reaches full maturity. Adults usually live for around 10 months, but can live for a year or more in a home where the environment is good for reproduction, with temperatures ranging between 21°C and 28°C, making it ideal for breeding year round.

Bed bugs can live from several weeks up to roughly a year and a half without feeding. Older bed bugs can go even longer without feeding.

What can they do?
Bed bugs can cause allergic reactions and itchy welts. Allergic sensitivity can increase if exposure is prolonged. They do not however pose a major health risk and are not known carriers of blood-borne diseases. Bed bug bites may not be noticed immediately because bed bugs typically feed at night when people are asleep.

Bed bugs are wingless and cannot fly or jump, but are able to hide in extremely small locations because of their flattened bodies - under wallpaper, behind picture frames, in electrical outlets, inside box springs, in mattress pads and in night tables. Long considered eradicated in most metropolitan areas, bed bugs are making a comeback. People now travel more than ever before, and bed bugs are hitching rides on clothing and luggage. They can now be found everywhere there is a high turnover of people, from homeless shelters to five-star hotels. They can also be accidentally transported around the house on objects. Bed bugs do not indicate a lack of cleanliness.

How can I manage them?
Because bed bugs are hard to get rid of, a pest control operator is a simple solution. Alternatively, you may decide to control them yourself. Usually more than one chemical treatment is required, and must be done in addition to physical control.

Be thorough in addressing bed bug infestations, because bed bugs travel easily, you may have to treat nearby rooms. Remove or reduce any clutter that might transport bed bugs.

Bed treatment
Infested mattresses should be steam-cleaned. Take care to use steam that is hot enough, and avoid excess moisture which could lead to mould. Inspect your bed thoroughly by examining the seams, tufts and crevices of the mattress as well as the box spring, bed frame and headboard. You may have to remove the cloth underside of the box spring to determine if there are bugs inside. Mattress pads and sheets should be washed in hot water and dried on the high setting. Infested areas should be vacuumed carefully with a brush attachment. Afterwards, dispose of the vacuum bag immediately and inspect the brush attachment for bed bugs. Bed bugs cannot easily climb metal or polished surfaces and cannot fly or jump. Treat the legs of beds to keep them away. Coat the legs with double-sided carpet tape or petroleum jelly, you can also place the legs of the bed inside glass jars or metal cans.

You may have to discard your bed. Holes or worn spots in the fabric may allow bed bugs to lay eggs in areas not easily reached, and there are restrictions on how insecticides can be used on beds.

Treatment of other items
Carefully examine all night tables, baseboards, dressers, headboards (especially padded ones), electrical outlets, any items stored near or under the bed, any nearby carpeting or rugs, picture frames, switch plates, inside clocks, phones, televisions and smoke detectors - in short, anything and everything that is in the room where the infestation has been noted. Upholstered chairs and sofas can also harbour bed bugs and should be treated with careful vacuuming and laundering of all possible parts (cushions, slipcovers, skirts, etc.).

Smaller items that cannot be laundered can sometimes be treated by heating (temperatures greater than 50°C) or freezing. Some items can be wrapped in plastic wrap and placed outdoors on a hot sunny day or in sub-zero temperatures in the winter. However, the freezing temperatures must be maintained for a prolonged period of time (e.g., four days of cold exposure at 0°C) to ensure that the bed bugs are killed.

Prevention
To prevent future bed bug infestations, mattresses must be completely enclosed. They can be wrapped in zippered bed encasements available from allergy supply companies, with duct tape over the zipper. Mattresses can also be wrapped and sealed in plastic film. Be cautious about taking in second-hand furniture, bedding, mattresses or beds. Inspect and clean them before bringing them home. When you travel, inspect the mattress and headboard in the hotel room, do not bring your pillow from home, and do not put your suitcase on the bed.

Products
Domestic class products available to homeowners will generally contain the active ingredients pyrethrin or diatomaceous earth.

Several commercial class products are available to professional pest control operators. These may include low-odour sprays, dusts or aerosols; your pest control operator will select the best product for your particular situation.

Note: Bed bug infestations can be extremely difficult to treat, and repeat applications may be required. Always follow the pesticide label directions to minimize exposure and maximize efficacy of the product. Between applications of pesticide products, keep monitoring the situation to physically control ongoing and prevent future infestations.

Responsible Pesticide Use
Before Purchasing a Pesticide
•Identify the pest correctly.
•Use physical control methods and alternatives to pesticides.
•Read the label directions and safety precautions before buying the product. The label must include the name of the pest to be controlled and the treatment location (e.g., indoor, outdoor, garden uses, pet treatment).
•Purchase only the quantity of product needed for the treatment.
•Consider hiring a licensed pest control operator.

Using a Pesticide
•Carefully read all label instructions and precautions before using pesticides.
•Do not drink, eat or smoke while applying pesticides.
•Persons and pets should vacate the area during treatment. Cover or remove aquaria.
•If kitchen area is to be treated, cover or remove food, dishes and utensils.

After Using a Pesticide
•Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling any pesticide product.
•Do not permit persons or pets to contact treated surfaces until residue has dried completely.
•Provide adequate ventilation of treated areas after use.
•Wipe clean all surfaces that come in direct contact with food, such as counters, tables and stovetops, including indoor and outdoor surfaces.
•Always store pesticides out of reach of children and pets and away from food and beverages.

Accidental Poisoning
•Call a poison control centre immediately and seek medical attention.
•Take the pesticide container or label with you to the emergency facility or physician.
•Follow first aid statements on the label.
•In case of accidental poisoning of pets seek veterinary attention immediately.
•Report pesticide incidents to manufacturers (phone number on label). They are required to send them to Health Canada.

Disposing of Pesticides
•Do not reuse empty pesticide containers. Wrap and dispose of in household garbage.
•Follow the product label instructions or contact provincial authorities for disposal of pesticides.
Note:
•These are general recommendations.
•Consult the label for specific instructions.

Mr. Roach

Mr. Roach
Cockroach extermination tutorial. I can't believe this method was standard practice!!! A house wife using Chlordane right out of a jar!

Spider Removal: Pest Control For Spiders

Spider Removal

Spiders have an ominous, but often undeserved reputation. Though most spiders are venomous and considered predators, of the thousands of species found in The United States, few are actually considered a health threat. In fact, spiders are actually helpful in controlling other pests in the home or garden since they feed on other insects and spiders. They generally bite and inject venom into their prey. Spiders, however, rarely bite humans.

Although spiders are often unpopular, the venom of most species is not very toxic to humans, usually resulting in no more than a slight swelling, inflammation, or itching sensation. Most spiders’ fangs are too small or weak to puncture human skin. Spiders usually will not attempt to bite unless accidentally trapped against the skin or grasped, although some species actively guard their egg sacs or young.

Two spiders that can be a health risk are the brown recluse and black widow.

One of the most common misconceptions about spiders is that they are insects. Spiders are arachnids and are actually closely related to mites, ticks and scorpions. Spiders have two body parts (cephalothorax and abdomen), eight legs and usually six to eight eyes, while insects are classified by having three body parts (head, thorax and abdomen), six legs, and generally two compound eyes or up to three single eyes. The average life span of a spider is usually one to two years, but some can live five years and up to 20 years.


Life Cycle and Habits
Spiders lay eggs within a silken egg sac that is often ball-shaped and either hidden in a web, affixed to a surface, or carried by the female. Spiders may produce several egg sacs, each containing up to several hundred eggs. A spider grows by shedding its skin (molting), usually four to twelve times before maturity. In many species, the mature male often wanders about in search of a mate. Some species of spiders may live for years, but most spiders only survive for one season.

All spiders produce silk, which is secreted as a liquid through the spinnerets and hardens on air contact. Spiders use silk for a variety of purposes, such as making egg sacs, capturing prey, holding prey, making shelters or retreats, and transferring sperm during mating. Also, spiderlings extrude silk threads that enable them to be transported by air currents, a process called “ballooning.”

Spiders are predators that typically feed on living prey. They produce venom that is poisonous to their normal prey of insects, mites, and other small arthropods. Venom is injected through the hollow fangs to immobilize the prey and begin the digestion process. Spiders can only ingest liquids, so they either inject or regurgitate digestive fluids into the prey. They then suck in the digested liquid food.

Spiders use a variety of tactics to capture prey. Some species are web builders that use webbing to ensnare their prey. Others are active hunters that actively search for their prey. Passive hunters are spiders that lay in wait for their prey rather than searching for it.


Control Measures
The simplest method of controlling spider infestation is to reduce the pest population (other insects) inside the home so they seek a more dependable food supply outside the home. Control of spiders is best achieved by following an integrated pest management (IPM) approach that involves multiple tactics, such as preventive measures, exclusion, sanitation, and chemicals applied to targeted sites. IPM requires a thorough inspection of the building to locate the pest and its harborages. An inspection should be done at night if the species is nocturnal.

Silverfish & Firebrat Removal

Silverfish Appearance

Silverfish are about 1/2 inch long, with a uniform silvery color over the upper surface. Their bodies are long and slender, flattened. The bodies are broad at the front, and gradually tapering toward the rear.They can be found almost anywhere, but prefer damp, moderate temperature places such as basements, laundry rooms, and under sinks.

Silverfish Biology and Habits

Silverfish prefer a dark, moist environment and require a large supply of starchy foods or molds.
Silverfish are considered to be nuisance pests that can feed on wallpaper pastes, natural textiles, books, and papers.

Silverfish also feed on mold or fungi that can grow on various surfaces.

They are fast-moving and can travel throughout buildings. Once silverfish find a good source of food, however, they stay close to it.

Silverfish go through only a three stage life cycle called gradual metamorphosis, while many insects have a four stage life cycle (complete metamorphosis). Silverfish may lay eggs at any time during the year, and take 19-43 days to hatch. The life cycle from silverfish egg to adult is three to four months. They prefer humid areas (75 to 97% humidity), like bathrooms and moderate temperatures (70o to 80o F).

Silverfish are found in basements, kitchens, sinks, bathtubs, in bookcases, on closet shelves, behind baseboards, wallpaper, window or door frames, wall voids, and sub-floor areas.

Silverfish are active at night or are active in dark places found throughout the structure.

Silverfish can be a problem year round.

Attics are a favorite place for silverfish due to the abundant food sources due to the recycled blown in paper insulation and storage boxes.

You may see silverfish trapped in sinks and bathtubs because they enter seeking moisture and are unable to climb a slick vertical surface to escape.


Symptoms and Damage of Silverfish:

Silverfish are found in basements, kitchens, sinks, bathtubs, in bookcases, on closet shelves, behind baseboards, wallpaper, window or door frames, wall voids, and sub-floor areas.

Because they molt during their adult lives their cast skins may be a useful detection too.
Silverfish diets are high in protein, sugar, or starch, including cereals, moist wheat flour, starch in book bindings, and paper on which there is glue or paste.
Silverfish can damage book bindings, wallpaper, paper goods and dry foods. They may eat holes, irregular shaped in the wallpaper to get to the paste. Silverfish may bite very small holes in various fabrics, including cotton, linen, and silk, even though they cannot digest either linen or cotton.

Firebrats will feed extensively on rayon, whereas silverfish usually damage it only slightly.

They may leave a yellowish stain on fabric.

Outside, they may be found in nest of insects, birds, mammals, and under tree bark and mulch

They can be found in wood shingles or sidings on houses, they may enter the home from these.


RECOMMENDED MEASURES FOR SILVERFISH CONTROL:
How to Get Rid of and Kill Silverfish

Sources of any undue moisture, such as faulty plumbing or condensation that provide the humidity favored by these pests should be eliminated. Dehumidifying reduces the moisture content of the air that these insects find essential. Some methods for dehumidifying include:

Mend leaking pipes. Ventilate closed rooms and attics. Eliminate standing water. Use a dehumidifier an air conditioner. Use silica gel which acts like a desiccant such as DRIONE DUST. Regularly vacuuming cracks and crevices with a narrow vacuum tip also can be a good method to physically remove these insects from their harborages. Removal of food sources , stored in tight containers. If you have a problem of silverfish inside your home, a good residual perimeter treatment of:
Cyonara 9.7 or Demon WP /Cyper WP insecticide

These residual insecticides, sprayed around entry points and foundation of the house would be the first step. Spray along the foundational wall, with a two or three foot band. Cyonara 9.7, Demon WP/Cyper WP : last for two to three months. All these products are odorless. The wettable powder (WP) formulation in the Demon WP and Cyper WP will leave a slight film that can be seen against dark surfaces. The Cyonara 9.7 does not leave a film. However if you have a more severe problem with silverfish , look into stored boxes and the insulation in your attic. It is best to dust or bait these areas for greater control. When you use baits or dusts, you do want to get it as close as possible to their habitats to be effective. You never want to bait and dust in areas that are visible. Dust needs to be in hidden areas such as : Attics-Insulation, Behind
Refrigerators and Ovens, Boxes, Light fixtures, Electrical outlets, Under siding, etc.

A recommended dust for silverfish control would be ECO PCO DX DUST. It is a botaniacal/pyrethrin dust that last for 6 months. Apply it in the attic in the insulation area in particular, under siding, in storage boxes,light fixtures, electrical outlets. Apply it to areas that can be kept dry. An easy way to apply ECO PCO DX Dust, if broadcasting in the insulation area would be the use of a duster called the DUSTIN MIZER,cranking out a large amount of dust at a time. You will want one lb. of dust per 800-1000 sq. ft. For smaller dust jobs BELLOWS 8 OZ. DUSTER would work fine.

Another very effective way is the use of baits in the attic or on the outside for silverfish control. INTICE GRANULAR BAITS(SAME ACTIVE INGREDIENT AS NIBAN) works very well against silverfish as well as roaches and crickets. It can be sprinkled out in a self contained one lb. bag, in all the areas you believe they are hiding. You can also you a residual aerosol like D-FORCE HPX with a crack and crevice tip, enabling you to get behind baseboards and corners of traveling paths of the silverfish. This type of aerosol is very helpful in bathrooms where silverfish like to eat the back of wallpaper. SILVERFISH PAKS are designed to go inside. These Paks destroy these year-round pests that eat wool, paper, linen and cellulose materials. Place odorless, wafer-thin packets under rugs, behind curtains, in closets and dark hidden places . Place away from children and pets. Niban/Intice and Silverfish Paks both are designed to attract the silverfish as they eat, functioning as long term baits. If you do not know the exact location of the habitat of the silverfish and cannot treat it directly, baits are ideal for silverfish control.

*** Silverfish Paks is an excellent product to accompany a through spraying and/or dusting. It is not advised as a stand alone treatment.

Ant Removal

Ant Removal Made Easy

Ant extermination begins with identification. While there is a nearly limitless number of ant species, a few are common to household infestations. Carpenter ants and fire ants are among the most common. Most ants, like carpenter ants, do most of their damage by taking up residence in or near your home. Fire ants are like mines waiting to go off and sting you. Carpenter ants will hollow out your wood to create their nests. Ant extermination is best when done early and can make the cost considerably more manageable.

Fire Ants

Identification

Fire ant identification usually begins with finding one of their mounds. These mounds are generally a few inches high, fluffy, and typically first form the day after a heavy rain. They have no opening at the top of the mound, unlike most other ant mounds. Fire ants travel through underground tunnels. If you accidentally dig up a fire ant mound, you'll see white objects. These are the eggs and ant larvae, also called the brood. If you think you've accidentally dug up one of these mounds, don't hang around because as many as several hundred fire ants are on their way and they will crawl up the first vertical surface they find and begin biting.

Extermination/Removal

Fire ant extermination is generally focused on mound drenching and broadcast treatments. There are several fire ant extermination products on the market. You should drench a mound with at least one gallon per foot of mound diameter. It is extremely important that you don't disturb the mound before you drench it. The queen will escape and your extermination will be less effective.

Broadcast treatments involve canvassing your entire yard with granules. These granules should then be watered to cause the granules fall onto your soil's surface and will ensure fire ants come into contact with them. With both forms of treatment, you will also need to keep people and pets away from the treated areas until they are dry.

Fire ant extermination can also be done with baiting, but the process is usually time-consuming and more expensive. No matter what treatment used, complete fire ant removal is notoriously difficult. You will probably need to treat your yard from 1-3 times a year.

Carpenter Ants

Identification

Carpenter ants are difficult to visually identify because they come in different sizes and different roles within the colony. Carpenter ant colonies include workers and winged swarmers. The workers almost always appear first. These carpenter ants are black and between a quarter inch to a half inch in size. If you can get a really good look at them, these ants also have a circle of hair at the end of their abdomen.

The good news is that seeing carpenter ants is not necessarily a sign that you have an active infestation. These worker ants can travel quite some distance foraging for food and water. The bad news is that if they're not dealt with they may keep coming back and because of the distance their nest isn't always easy to find. If you begin to see winged swarmers, you have an active infestation and a nest is probably already established inside or near your home. Well-established carpenter ants also create sub-colonies. As many as a dozen satellite colonies can branch off from the main nest.

Extermination/Removal

Once you have identified carpenter ants in your home, the first thing you should do is cut off any available water and food sources. Carpenters ants do not eat wood, they only use wood to nest in. After you eliminate these food and water sources as much as is possible, you should try to find the entry point. Carpenter ants can enter your house from almost anywhere, but the most common ways are dropping onto your ceiling from nearby branches and holes or cracks in the foundation. Try to find these entry points and seal them off and/or cut back any nearby trees.

If you don't have an active infestation, this may be enough to take care of the problem. If you continue to have a problem or if you have an active infestation, it's time for carpenter ant extermination. Several different types of pesticide treatments are available. Some target killing the carpenter ants that are present in the home. Others target the perimeter of the home and prevent further infestation. Multiple treatments are often applied, but at least should target infecting the colony itself to make sure a complete ant extermination is achieved.