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Advice from industry professionals and a place for all your pest control needs.



Showing posts with label ants. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ants. Show all posts

Ant Season Is Here!

First a word of caution.


Many pest control professionals consider Carpenter ants the most difficult pest there is to deal with in the industry. With all the training and experience they have, there are some homes that take considerable time and a number of treatments to completely eradicate these destructive insects. Many homeowners will call in a professional after they have failed to solve the problem themselves. This situation is usually more difficult to deal with because the homeowner randomly sprayed pesticides killing the obvious evidence and scattering the satellite nests. Of course this increases the cost. If you are not prepared to spend hours in your attic and crawl space wearing a respirator, rubber gloves, coveralls and a hat, then you may be wise to call a professional to do the job properly.

The process:


Find all of the Satellite nests in the home. (Read about nests on the identification and life cycle page)
Try to locate the "mother" nests and the queens.
Eliminate conditions that made the home a suitable habitat for the ants.
Treat the satellite nests with a suitable pest control method or product.

Don't:

Don't spray pesticides on ants outside the nests. Use a vacuum cleaner inside your home.
Don't use "ant drops, ant poisons, ant traps". Save your money for something worthwhile.
Don't squash foraging ants. Follow them.
Don't rip apart walls or ceilings to find the nests.

How to:

Finding carpenter ant nests requires a lot of time an patience. With years of experience, a professional will know where these nests are likely to be and will look for evidence of frass, the junk thrown out of nests. This is often caught up in spider webs in attics, crawl spaces, basements under decks and around the exterior perimeter under the soffits and below the siding. Sometimes sawdust excavated by the ants from the structure will be noticeable, but not always.


Following ants outside the nest is the best indication of it's location, but ants will often follow channels hidden from the hot sun, rain and your vision. Less than 10 % of the population will ever leave the nests so at times there are very few to follow. Knowing whether the ant you are following is heading for food, or has already eaten and is heading back to the nest is an indicator that some very experienced professionals are capable of seeing.

Listen for them. If your hearing is good and the home is very quiet you may be able to hear the rustling and chewing noise they make. A medical stethoscope is useful but the sound of a refrigerator or even a clock can confuse the inexperienced ear.


How to find the main nests (and the queens):


In some locations it would be impossible to find all the main nests among the trees, logs, stumps, buried wood and roots. Even if these nests are found, removing them can be a monumental task. All satellite nests remain in contact with the main nest. Workers can be seen carrying mature larvae from the overcrowded queen's home to new or established satellites of the colony. If you find the main nest, try to remove it physically. If you put toxic products into it, they may leach into the ground water and contaminate water supplies or fish habitat some distance away.

If you can not remove the nest, try to eliminate any favorable conditions that encourage them to move toward the home. Tree branches, fences, garden hoses, structural wood touching the soil, landscape ties and utility wires all provide an easy route to follow. A very fine dusting of diatomaceous earth around the perimeter base of the home will discourage all insects from crossing it to gain entry. This is short term and should be repeated frequently in the spring, summer and fall.


Pesticides, Poisons and Secret Formulas.

Toxic Sprays: Most pesticides available to the public will kill any insect that they come in contact with while still wet. Once dry, the residual effect is minimal and has very little effect on insects.

Ant Dusts: Diatomaceous earth is sold in a variety of containers with convincing trade names. The basic product can also be purchased in much less expensive plain plastic bags at most garden stores.

Toxic chlorpyrifos is now off the market and illegal to use in Canada and U.S.A.

Boric Acid dust: It is very difficult to inject into a nesting cavity without proper equipment. Do not put it in exposed areas.

Ant Poisons sold over the counter at most hardware stores have little if any effect on carpenter ants

Ant Traps are actually not traps. The little tin cans with holes in the side contain borax. They have no effect on carpenter ants.

Secret Formulas: If you find one that works, patent it immediately. Scientists around the world have been searching for years for ingredients that will attract and kill or repel carpenter ants. Some things that homeowners have tried include cinnamon, cayenne pepper, moth balls, boric acid and icing sugar.

None of them have been proven effective.







Disclaimer: This web page was compiled by a pest management professional, not an entomologist.

As a result, some of the terms used may not be accurate according to scientific terms of reference.
Our objective is to provide basic and interesting information for the average homeowner.

Ant Removal




Ant Removal Made Easy

Ant extermination begins with identification. While there is a nearly limitless number of ant species, a few are common to household infestations. Carpenter ants and fire ants are among the most common. Most ants, like carpenter ants, do most of their damage by taking up residence in or near your home. Fire ants are like mines waiting to go off and sting you. Carpenter ants will hollow out your wood to create their nests. Ant extermination is best when done early and can make the cost considerably more manageable.

Fire Ants

Identification
Fire ant identification usually begins with finding one of their mounds. These mounds are generally a few inches high, fluffy, and typically first form the day after a heavy rain. They have no opening at the top of the mound, unlike most other ant mounds. Fire ants travel through underground tunnels. If you accidentally dig up a fire ant mound, you'll see white objects. These are the eggs and ant larvae, also called the brood. If you think you've accidentally dug up one of these mounds, don't hang around because as many as several hundred fire ants are on their way and they will crawl up the first vertical surface they find and begin biting.

Extermination/Removal

Fire ant extermination is generally focused on mound drenching and broadcast treatments. There are several fire ant extermination products on the market. You should drench a mound with at least one gallon per foot of mound diameter. It is extremely important that you don't disturb the mound before you drench it. The queen will escape and your extermination will be less effective.

Broadcast treatments involve canvassing your entire yard with granules. These granules should then be watered to cause the granules fall onto your soil's surface and will ensure fire ants come into contact with them. With both forms of treatment, you will also need to keep people and pets away from the treated areas until they are dry.

Fire ant extermination can also be done with baiting, but the process is usually time-consuming and more expensive. No matter what treatment used, complete fire ant removal is notoriously difficult. You will probably need to treat your yard from 1-3 times a year.




Carpenter Ants

Identification

Carpenter ants are difficult to visually identify because they come in different sizes and different roles within the colony. Carpenter ant colonies include workers and winged swarmers. The workers almost always appear first. These carpenter ants are black and between a quarter inch to a half inch in size. If you can get a really good look at them, these ants also have a circle of hair at the end of their abdomen.

The good news is that seeing carpenter ants is not necessarily a sign that you have an active infestation. These worker ants can travel quite some distance foraging for food and water. The bad news is that if they're not dealt with they may keep coming back and because of the distance their nest isn't always easy to find. If you begin to see winged swarmers, you have an active infestation and a nest is probably already established inside or near your home. Well-established carpenter ants also create sub-colonies. As many as a dozen satellite colonies can branch off from the main nest.

Extermination/Removal
Once you have identified carpenter ants in your home, the first thing you should do is cut off any available water and food sources. Carpenters ants do not eat wood, they only use wood to nest in. After you eliminate these food and water sources as much as is possible, you should try to find the entry point. Carpenter ants can enter your house from almost anywhere, but the most common ways are dropping onto your ceiling from nearby branches and holes or cracks in the foundation. Try to find these entry points and seal them off and/or cut back any nearby trees.

If you don't have an active infestation, this may be enough to take care of the problem. If you continue to have a problem or if you have an active infestation, it's time for carpenter ant extermination. Several different types of pesticide treatments are available. Some target killing the carpenter ants that are present in the home. Others target the perimeter of the home and prevent further infestation. Multiple treatments are often applied, but at least should target infecting the colony itself to make sure a complete ant extermination is achieved.

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