With the weather changes that September and October bring is usually when you start to notice that you are sharing your home with rodents. As is gets cooler outside many of them will look for somewhere warm and safe to spend the winter. But is your home really a safe haven for them?Inspecting Your Home For Rodents
The inspection serves three useful functions:
1. Identifies the rodent species involved.
The most common rodent pests in livestock operations are the house mouse, Norway rat and roof rat. The house mouse is easy to recognize, generally 5-7 inches in length and gray in color. The common Norway rat, a large rodent usually 13-18 inches in length, weighs 12-16 ounces with reddish brown fur. The roof rat, found primarily along the west coast and in the southeastern United States, is a smaller black rat weighing between 6-9 ounces.
Rats and mice have unique behavioral characteristics. By identifying the species you can select rodent control products and strategies appropriate to that particular pest.
2. Determines the severity and location of the problem.
During the inspection, note where you've seen signs of rodents, which include burrows, droppings (rat droppings are about 1/2 to 3/4 inch in length; mouse droppings are 1/4 inch), gnaw marks, and rodent pathways.
This information helps you determine the size of the infestation and where rodents are living and feeding. In that way, you have a better idea of how much bait to use and where to place it for optimum results. Rats and mice are nocturnal and are most active from dusk to dawn. Seeing them in the daylight usually indicates a heavy infestation.
3. Identifies where sanitation and rodent proofing are needed.
Look for the rodents' sources of food, water and harborage indoors and out, and wherever possible, get rid of them. Also note areas or entry points where rodents are getting into buildings, and, wherever feasible, fix or eliminate these entry points to "build rodents out."
Sketching a diagram of your facility that indicates problem areas is useful for keeping track of your baiting efforts. It'll help you evaluate what is working or where adjustments are needed in your rodent control efforts.
Steps to setting up a baiting program inside barns, and animal living spaces :
Place Rodent Bait Stations every 30-50 feet along the inside walls of all buildings. If necessary, stake or anchor the bait station to the ground or a permanent surface to prevent it from being moved and to keep the bait away from other animals.
Place bait blocks in bait stations.
For mouse problems, you could also place Mouse Bait Stations every 10-20 feet around the inside perimeter of buildings or wherever you've seen signs of mice. Be sure that these bait stations fit flush along walls or in corners with the point directly into the corner. They can also also be placed along walls adjacent to entry ways to intercept rodents as they enter.
Place one single-feeding type bait in each Bait Station. Inspect stations frequently until you have activity under control. Increase baiting in areas that have high rodent activity.
You may need to adjust the placement of the bait stations depending on the level of rodent activity. More frequent inspections and baiting may be required in some areas in the fall when rodents head into buildings for the cold season.
Keep up a fresh supply of bait. Rodents will reject rancid or spoiled bait. Bait securing rods also help bait blocks stay fresh longer by elevating them above the floor of the bait station, away from any moisture build-up.
Burrow Baiting.
Often the best way to control Norway rats is to bait their burrows. Place loose pellets deep in the burrow or crevice where you've noticed rodent activity. Try not to disturb the burrows.
Check burrows in 7 to 10 days after baiting. To monitor activity, close the burrow with wadded-up paper or cover with soil. Return the following day. A re-opened burrow means rodents still exist. Continue baiting. Check burrows periodically as part of your monthly maintenance program.
In Grassy and Weedy Areas.
The inspection may reveal rodent pathways leading to buildings. If you haven't already set up an outside perimeter baiting program, do so to intercept rodents as they move from their burrows or neighboring fields into buildings. Again, try not to disturb the rodents' habitat during baiting or they will migrate to other areas. Once you've gotten the population under control, trim back weeds and grass to get rid of rodent harbourage.
Conclusion:
No matter what method you deploy whether it be baiting or trapping, (I never recommend live trapping rodents) know that it will take some time and won't get rid of them overnight.
For example, last year in my own home I caught nine mice over the course of about three weeks. I used the same methods that are outlined here and they worked as intended.
Happy Hunting.
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