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Showing posts with label pest control. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pest control. Show all posts

Wasp Warnings & How to Exterminate Them

A Wasp Warning
by Zeroflex
Aug 15/10

As we enter the dog days of summer and the overnight temperatures remain greater than the day time highs of April and May, it is important to note that temperature affects wasps just as it does humans. The later in the season it gets and the hotter it is, the more aggressive they become.

To compound the problem, that once baseball sized nest in May has now grown to basketball or even beach ball size and has gone from a population of a few dozen to a few hundred or more. What seemed in the Spring as a few docile black and yellow pollinators buzzing about the garden, have become nothing short of warriors defending their nest with kamikaze like attacks on anything threatening.

When a wasp stings it leaves behind a pheromone marker letting the others know where to attack. Multiple stings can be life threatening to anyone even if you are not allergic. If you get stung within the vicinity of a nest it would be wise to leave the area quickly.

So What Now?

Chances are that if you haven't exterminated the nest by now, it's probably not in an area that poses any danger to humans and can be left to die on its own (which they do every Autumn anyway).

However, if the nest is in an area where it poses a threat to human safety, it must be exterminated and you can do it yourself with these tips. (If you are at all nervous about this or your palms are sweating just thinking about it, it would be best to hire a professional exterminator because the margin for error is thin and the results could potentially be catastrophic)

Nest Extermination

If you can not see the actual nest but rather a hole where the wasps are going in and out of (eg. soffit of the roof or wood siding) it is best to call an exterminator because this can be more involved.

If you can see the nest and it's within reach you're already half way done!

It is important to know that I am a professional exterminator and this is the method and techniques I use on most wasp nests but your situation may differ.

Step One: Observing The Enemy
From a safe distance just stand for a few minutes observing the flight path of the wasps as they fly in and out of the nest as if they were using an invisible runway. Never stand in the flight path!

Step Two: Approach With Caution
Approaching the wasp nest from the back side of it is always best as this will put you out of the flight path. If the rear is not accessible approach from the side that gives you the best escape route should you need it.

Step Three: A Time To Kill
How close you should get depends on how much activity there is around the nest. (Once treatment begins there will be an explosion of wasp numbers and at this point there's no turning back). Only get as close as you need to.

I use a Pyrethrin based aerosol can with the red straw attached. The can is attached to a pole (There is a special tool for this but an extendable pole, some tape and a length of string will allow you to make your own) so you can treat the nest from a safer distance.

This is the one I use
Some folks like to treat the entry hole of the nest but I don't. I make my own hole by puncturing the nest at the top with the red straw and fill it with aerosol until the nest is saturated and then clearing the area. You're done!

Successful elimination of all wasps will occur within the next 24 to 48 hours. If activity remains after 48 hours a second treatment is necessary.


A final word:
Time of day, temperature, weather conditions and actions of the exterminator are all factors in the decision of when and how to eliminate a wasp nest. Under ideal conditions this job is done just before dawn or just after dusk when it is cool and clear outside.

In the real world as a professional it rarely if ever happens that way. This is not meant to be a comprehensive guide but rather a view into how a professional exterminator eliminates a wasp nest.

Bed Bug Extermination Guide

Bed bugs - what are they?
Bed bugs have an oval broad, flat body and a short, broad head. Shaped similar to an apple seed, unfed adults are around 6 to 10 mm long and brown and wingless. After feeding, they swell slightly in size and darken to a blood-red colour. The nymphs are shaped like the adults, but are yellow-white in colour.

Itchy welts on skin and/or black or brown spots on mattresses sheets, bed frames or walls often indicate that there is a bed bug infestation.

Bed bugs are also known by several names: wall louse, house bug, mahogany flat, red coat, crimson ramblers as well as others.

The bed bug eggs are white, about 1 mm long (1/25 inch), and are almost impossible to see on most surfaces. The female bed bug lays at least 200 eggs in her lifetime, at a rate of about two or four per day. The eggs have a sticky coating and are deposited in cracks and crevices, behind woodwork and similar hidden locations. They usually hatch in six to 17 days.

Newly hatched nymphs feed as soon as food is available. A bed bug goes through five moults before it reaches full maturity. Adults usually live for around 10 months, but can live for a year or more in a home where the environment is good for reproduction, with temperatures ranging between 21°C and 28°C, making it ideal for breeding year round.

Bed bugs can live from several weeks up to roughly a year and a half without feeding. Older bed bugs can go even longer without feeding.

What can they do?
Bed bugs can cause allergic reactions and itchy welts. Allergic sensitivity can increase if exposure is prolonged. They do not however pose a major health risk and are not known carriers of blood-borne diseases. Bed bug bites may not be noticed immediately because bed bugs typically feed at night when people are asleep.

Bed bugs are wingless and cannot fly or jump, but are able to hide in extremely small locations because of their flattened bodies - under wallpaper, behind picture frames, in electrical outlets, inside box springs, in mattress pads and in night tables. Long considered eradicated in most metropolitan areas, bed bugs are making a comeback. People now travel more than ever before, and bed bugs are hitching rides on clothing and luggage. They can now be found everywhere there is a high turnover of people, from homeless shelters to five-star hotels. They can also be accidentally transported around the house on objects. Bed bugs do not indicate a lack of cleanliness.

How can I manage them?
Because bed bugs are hard to get rid of, a pest control operator is a simple solution. Alternatively, you may decide to control them yourself. Usually more than one chemical treatment is required, and must be done in addition to physical control.

Be thorough in addressing bed bug infestations, because bed bugs travel easily, you may have to treat nearby rooms. Remove or reduce any clutter that might transport bed bugs.

Bed treatment
Infested mattresses should be steam-cleaned. Take care to use steam that is hot enough, and avoid excess moisture which could lead to mould. Inspect your bed thoroughly by examining the seams, tufts and crevices of the mattress as well as the box spring, bed frame and headboard. You may have to remove the cloth underside of the box spring to determine if there are bugs inside. Mattress pads and sheets should be washed in hot water and dried on the high setting. Infested areas should be vacuumed carefully with a brush attachment. Afterwards, dispose of the vacuum bag immediately and inspect the brush attachment for bed bugs. Bed bugs cannot easily climb metal or polished surfaces and cannot fly or jump. Treat the legs of beds to keep them away. Coat the legs with double-sided carpet tape or petroleum jelly, you can also place the legs of the bed inside glass jars or metal cans.

You may have to discard your bed. Holes or worn spots in the fabric may allow bed bugs to lay eggs in areas not easily reached, and there are restrictions on how insecticides can be used on beds.

Treatment of other items
Carefully examine all night tables, baseboards, dressers, headboards (especially padded ones), electrical outlets, any items stored near or under the bed, any nearby carpeting or rugs, picture frames, switch plates, inside clocks, phones, televisions and smoke detectors - in short, anything and everything that is in the room where the infestation has been noted. Upholstered chairs and sofas can also harbour bed bugs and should be treated with careful vacuuming and laundering of all possible parts (cushions, slipcovers, skirts, etc.).

Smaller items that cannot be laundered can sometimes be treated by heating (temperatures greater than 50°C) or freezing. Some items can be wrapped in plastic wrap and placed outdoors on a hot sunny day or in sub-zero temperatures in the winter. However, the freezing temperatures must be maintained for a prolonged period of time (e.g., four days of cold exposure at 0°C) to ensure that the bed bugs are killed.

Prevention
To prevent future bed bug infestations, mattresses must be completely enclosed. They can be wrapped in zippered bed encasements available from allergy supply companies, with duct tape over the zipper. Mattresses can also be wrapped and sealed in plastic film. Be cautious about taking in second-hand furniture, bedding, mattresses or beds. Inspect and clean them before bringing them home. When you travel, inspect the mattress and headboard in the hotel room, do not bring your pillow from home, and do not put your suitcase on the bed.

Products
Domestic class products available to homeowners will generally contain the active ingredients pyrethrin or diatomaceous earth.

Several commercial class products are available to professional pest control operators. These may include low-odour sprays, dusts or aerosols; your pest control operator will select the best product for your particular situation.

Note: Bed bug infestations can be extremely difficult to treat, and repeat applications may be required. Always follow the pesticide label directions to minimize exposure and maximize efficacy of the product. Between applications of pesticide products, keep monitoring the situation to physically control ongoing and prevent future infestations.

Responsible Pesticide Use
Before Purchasing a Pesticide
•Identify the pest correctly.
•Use physical control methods and alternatives to pesticides.
•Read the label directions and safety precautions before buying the product. The label must include the name of the pest to be controlled and the treatment location (e.g., indoor, outdoor, garden uses, pet treatment).
•Purchase only the quantity of product needed for the treatment.
•Consider hiring a licensed pest control operator.

Using a Pesticide
•Carefully read all label instructions and precautions before using pesticides.
•Do not drink, eat or smoke while applying pesticides.
•Persons and pets should vacate the area during treatment. Cover or remove aquaria.
•If kitchen area is to be treated, cover or remove food, dishes and utensils.

After Using a Pesticide
•Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling any pesticide product.
•Do not permit persons or pets to contact treated surfaces until residue has dried completely.
•Provide adequate ventilation of treated areas after use.
•Wipe clean all surfaces that come in direct contact with food, such as counters, tables and stovetops, including indoor and outdoor surfaces.
•Always store pesticides out of reach of children and pets and away from food and beverages.

Accidental Poisoning
•Call a poison control centre immediately and seek medical attention.
•Take the pesticide container or label with you to the emergency facility or physician.
•Follow first aid statements on the label.
•In case of accidental poisoning of pets seek veterinary attention immediately.
•Report pesticide incidents to manufacturers (phone number on label). They are required to send them to Health Canada.

Disposing of Pesticides
•Do not reuse empty pesticide containers. Wrap and dispose of in household garbage.
•Follow the product label instructions or contact provincial authorities for disposal of pesticides.
Note:
•These are general recommendations.
•Consult the label for specific instructions.

Mr. Roach

Mr. Roach
Cockroach extermination tutorial. I can't believe this method was standard practice!!! A house wife using Chlordane right out of a jar!

Spring Pest Control - Common Pests That Appear in the Spring Time

Spring Pest Control - Common Pests That Appear in the Spring Time

By Guilherme Oliveira

 
Are large black ants showing up in your kitchen or bathroom?


When the temperature warms to approximately 60 degrees, carpenter ants come out of dormancy and will forage and seek for food and nesting places. They can be seen both inside and outside of your home. They may be coming from an outside nest or may have already established a colony in the walls of your home. Carpenter ants will create tunnels in wood, causing the homeowner serious structural damage if left untreated.



Are you seeing bees in your home in early spring?

These are typically a wasp, hornet or yellow jacket queen bee, generally who have overwintered in your wall voids and attics. Once awake, they will look to lay eggs and establish new colonies. If left untreated, the bees will establish colonies and become a bigger problem.



Is there carpenter bee damage around your home?

Chances are if you had carpenter bees in the past, they have been dormant in the winter and will emerge in the spring to lay their eggs. The newly hatched eggs will emerge in late summer. This new generation will often drill new holes and nest in the same areas. A professional residual barrier is recommended for prevention.


Are small black ants around the counter tops in your kitchen, dog feeding areas, children play areas, and outside your home where mounds of dirt are pushed up from the soil?

These are signs of Pavement Ants. They are nuisance pests. Typically they are found outside in the soil but will seek out food in your home. Their colonies can be quite large and will not decrease unless treated.



Are spider webs creating a nuisance around your home?

Spiders can be found in basements, garages, porches and other sheltered areas. Spiders come out to find food and feed on other pests. Spider infestations are usually the result of other insects being present around your home. Preventative treatments of these insects will help reduce the spider problem.

For the best results dealing with spring pests, we highly recommend an Integrated Pest Management Plan or IPM Plan. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is a program designed to prevent infestations and eliminate any pest problems by reversing and eliminating conditions that are conductive to pests. This approach in conjunction with a maintenance plan will keep pests under control effectively.

Professional service is highly recommended for these spring pests. Preventive treatments will give you and your family peace of mind.

Precision Pest Control is a pest control company in Connecticut. Although we seek to inform all readers about common pests and pest control, we only provide pest control in Connecticut. Please visit our website for more information on common pests and to request services if you reside in Connecticut.



Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Guilherme_Oliveira

Spider Removal: Pest Control For Spiders



Spider Removal








Spiders have an ominous, but often undeserved reputation. Though most spiders are venomous and considered predators, of the thousands of species found in The United States, few are actually considered a health threat. In fact, spiders are actually helpful in controlling other pests in the home or garden since they feed on other insects and spiders. They generally bite and inject venom into their prey. Spiders, however, rarely bite humans.

Although spiders are often unpopular, the venom of most species is not very toxic to humans, usually resulting in no more than a slight swelling, inflammation, or itching sensation. Most spiders’ fangs are too small or weak to puncture human skin. Spiders usually will not attempt to bite unless accidentally trapped against the skin or grasped, although some species actively guard their egg sacs or young.

Two spiders that can be a health risk are the brown recluse and black widow.

One of the most common misconceptions about spiders is that they are insects. Spiders are arachnids and are actually closely related to mites, ticks and scorpions. Spiders have two body parts (cephalothorax and abdomen), eight legs and usually six to eight eyes, while insects are classified by having three body parts (head, thorax and abdomen), six legs, and generally two compound eyes or up to three single eyes. The average life span of a spider is usually one to two years, but some can live five years and up to 20 years.


Life Cycle and Habits
Spiders lay eggs within a silken egg sac that is often ball-shaped and either hidden in a web, affixed to a surface, or carried by the female. Spiders may produce several egg sacs, each containing up to several hundred eggs. A spider grows by shedding its skin (molting), usually four to twelve times before maturity. In many species, the mature male often wanders about in search of a mate. Some species of spiders may live for years, but most spiders only survive for one season.

All spiders produce silk, which is secreted as a liquid through the spinnerets and hardens on air contact. Spiders use silk for a variety of purposes, such as making egg sacs, capturing prey, holding prey, making shelters or retreats, and transferring sperm during mating. Also, spiderlings extrude silk threads that enable them to be transported by air currents, a process called “ballooning.”

Spiders are predators that typically feed on living prey. They produce venom that is poisonous to their normal prey of insects, mites, and other small arthropods. Venom is injected through the hollow fangs to immobilize the prey and begin the digestion process. Spiders can only ingest liquids, so they either inject or regurgitate digestive fluids into the prey. They then suck in the digested liquid food.

Spiders use a variety of tactics to capture prey. Some species are web builders that use webbing to ensnare their prey. Others are active hunters that actively search for their prey. Passive hunters are spiders that lay in wait for their prey rather than searching for it.


Control Measures
The simplest method of controlling spider infestation is to reduce the pest population (other insects) inside the home so they seek a more dependable food supply outside the home. Control of spiders is best achieved by following an integrated pest management (IPM) approach that involves multiple tactics, such as preventive measures, exclusion, sanitation, and chemicals applied to targeted sites. IPM requires a thorough inspection of the building to locate the pest and its harborages. An inspection should be done at night if the species is nocturnal.

Green Your Garden: Natural Pest Control

Not only is keeping pests out of your home important, but keeping them out of your garden can save you a lot of frustration. Green Your Garden: Natural Pest Control is a great article with tips on keeping your garden pest free.

Inspecting Your Home For Rodents


The inspection serves three useful functions:



1. Identifies the rodent species involved.

The most common rodent pests in livestock operations are the house mouse, Norway rat and roof rat. The house mouse is easy to recognize, generally 5-7 inches in length and gray in color. The common Norway rat, a large rodent usually 13-18 inches in length, weighs 12-16 ounces with reddish brown fur. The roof rat, found primarily along the west coast and in the southeastern United States, is a smaller black rat weighing between 6-9 ounces.

Rats and mice have unique behavioral characteristics. By identifying the species you can select rodent control products and strategies appropriate to that particular pest.


2. Determines the severity and location of the problem.

During the inspection, note where you've seen signs of rodents, which include burrows, droppings (rat droppings are about 1/2 to 3/4 inch in length; mouse droppings are 1/4 inch), gnaw marks, and rodent pathways. This information helps you determine the size of the infestation and where rodents are living and feeding. In that way, you have a better idea of how much bait to use and where to place it for optimum results. Rats and mice are nocturnal and are most active from dusk to dawn. Seeing them in the daylight usually indicates a heavy infestation.


3. Identifies where sanitation and rodent proofing are needed.

Look for the rodents' sources of food, water and harborage indoors and out, and wherever possible, get rid of them. Also note areas or entry points where rodents are getting into buildings, and, wherever feasible, fix or eliminate these entry points to "build rodents out."

Sketching a diagram of your facility that indicates problem areas is useful for keeping track of your baiting efforts. It'll help you evaluate what is working or where adjustments are needed in your rodent control efforts.


Steps to setting up a baiting program inside barns, and animal living spaces :


Place Rodent Bait Stations every 30-50 feet along the inside walls of all buildings. If necessary, stake or anchor the bait station to the ground or a permanent surface to prevent it from being moved and to keep the bait away from other animals.

Place bait blocks in bait stations.

For mouse problems, you could also place Mouse Bait Stations every 10-20 feet around the inside perimeter of buildings or wherever you've seen signs of mice. Be sure that these bait stations fit flush along walls or in corners with the point directly into the corner. They can also also be placed along walls adjacent to entry ways to intercept rodents as they enter.

Place one single-feeding type bait in each Bait Station. Inspect stations frequently until you have activity under control. Increase baiting in areas that have high rodent activity.

You may need to adjust the placement of the bait stations depending on the level of rodent activity. More frequent inspections and baiting may be required in some areas in the fall when rodents head into buildings for the cold season.

Keep up a fresh supply of bait. Rodents will reject rancid or spoiled bait. Bait securing rods also help bait blocks stay fresh longer by elevating them above the floor of the bait station, away from any moisture build-up.

Burrow Baiting.

Often the best way to control Norway rats is to bait their burrows. Place loose pellets deep in the burrow or crevice where you've noticed rodent activity. Try not to disturb the burrows.

Check burrows in 7 to 10 days after baiting. To monitor activity, close the burrow with wadded-up paper or cover with soil. Return the following day. A re-opened burrow means rodents still exist. Continue baiting. Check burrows periodically as part of your monthly maintenance program.


In Grassy and Weedy Areas.

The inspection may reveal rodent pathways leading to buildings. If you haven't already set up an outside perimeter baiting program, do so to intercept rodents as they move from their burrows or neighboring fields into buildings. Again, try not to disturb the rodents' habitat during baiting or they will migrate to other areas. Once you've gotten the population under control, trim back weeds and grass to get rid of rodent harborage.

Mouse Facts

  • Mice travel over their entire territory daily, investigating each change or new object that may be placed there.
  • Mice have poor vision, hence their activity patterns rely heavily on smell, taste, touch, and hearing.
  • Mice use the long sensitive whiskers near the nose and hairs on the body as tactile sensors. The whiskers and hairs enable the mouse to travel in the dark, adjacent to walls in burrows.
  • Mice also have an excellent sense of balance, enabling them to walk along telephone wires, ropes and similar thin objects.
  • Mice are excellent jumpers, capable of leaping at least 12 inches vertically.
  • Mice can jump against a flat vertical surface using it as a spring board to gain additional height.
  • They can run up almost any vertical surface; wood, brick, weathered sheet metal, cables, etc.
  • They can easily travel for some distance hanging upside down.
  • Although they are good swimmers, mice tend to take to water only if left with no other alternative.
  • Mice are basically nocturnal in nature.
  • House mice breed throughout the year and can become pregnant within 48 hours of producing a litter.
  • There are usually about 6 mice to a litter and females may produce as many as ten litters (about 50 young) per year.
  • It takes 18 to 21 days for gestation, and 35 days for a mouse to mature. Most mice live anywhere from 15 to 18 months.
  • They make their nests out of the same types of soft materials as rats, and as many as 3 females may use the same nest.
  • They commonly nest in insulation in attics, also in stoves and under refrigerators.
  • Mice do not travel far from their nest, about 12 to 20 feet.

 

Bed Bug Stats

Bedbug treatments by Orkin Pest Control in Canadian cities (2005 & 2006)
The following statistics are just a sampling of a pest control company's treatments in Canadian dwellings, including houses, apartments, dormitories and hotels. The company, Orkin Pest Control, is just one of many large pest control agencies. Time periods range for each region. The 2006 stats are for January to October, unless otherwise stated.

TORONTO NORTH
2006: 200 treatments thus far for 2006 or about 10% of total service for branch
Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Hotels
Motels
Dormitories

2005: 150 treatmentsFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Hotels
Motels

VANCOUVER/BURNABY
2006: 50 treatments thus far (huge hotel/motel business) or 25% of total service for branchFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Hospitals
Dormitories

Note: This branch performs so many bedbugs treatments that they are hiring 2 more technicians who will do nothing but handle bedbugs treatments.

2005: 35 treatments Facilities treated:
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Dormitories

STONEY CREEK
2006: 200 treatments thus far or about 5% of total service for branchFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes

2005: 100 treatmentsFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes

SASKATCHEWAN
2006: 125 treatments thus far or 10% of total service for branchFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Dormitories

2005: 75 treatments Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Dormitories

OTTAWA
2006: 500 treatments thus far or 30% of total service for branchFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes
Dormitories
Low income housing (surge in the number of infestations in these residences)

2005: 200 treatmentsFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes

NOVA SCOTIA
2006: 300 treatments thus far or 10% of total service for branchFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Government buildings
Group homes
Dormitories

2005: 250 treatmentsFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes
Low income housing (surge in the number of infestations in these residences)

CALGARY
2006: 200 treatments thus far or 20% of total service for branch Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes
Dormitories

2005: 200 (the past 5 years have been steadily busy) Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes
Dormitories

VANCOUVER ISLAND
2006: 250 treatments thus far or about 5% of total services for branch Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Correctional facilities
Government buildings
Military bases
Group homes
Dormitories
Cruise ships
Airplanes

2005: 200 treatments total Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Correctional facilities
Government buildings
Military bases
Group homes
Dormitories
Cruise ships
Airplanes

VALLEY/MAPLE RIDGE
2006: 100 treatments thus far or about 10% of total services for branch Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels

2005: 85 treatments Facilities treated:
Apartments
Hotels
Motels

Rentokil turnaround on track but shares fall

LONDON, Nov 6 (Reuters) - British pest control to parcel delivery firm Rentokil Initial (RTO.L) said its five-year turnaround plan was gathering pace as it posted an 82 percent increase in third-quarter profit and forecast more progress in the balance of 2009.

However, shares in the firm, whose businesses also include cleaning and the hiring out of uniforms and tropical plants, fell 7 percent as investors booked profits on concerns over the outlook for 2010.

The stock was down 7.9 pence at 104.1 pence at 1115 GMT, valuing the business at 2 billion pounds ($3.30 billion).

Before Friday's update, Rentokil shares had more than doubled over the last year, outperforming the DJ Stoxx European industrial goods and services sector index .SXNP by 65 percent.

"It would be tempting to believe that the lower (Q3) losses in parcels (Rentokil's City Link business) mark a change of fortunes for Rentokil and the share price is certainly reflecting this.

However, the outlook for the group is still uncertain and we retain our sell stance," said Seymour Pierce analyst Kevin Lapwood.

"The shares are trading on over 20 times our FY 2009 estimates, which now looks too high for a late cycle services company."

Rentokil brought in Alan Brown and John McAdam -- who together led a turnaround at British chemicals group ICI -- as CEO and chairman last year.

The pair are trying to reverse years of underperformance and botched acquisitions by improving customer service, operational efficiency and cutting costs.

"We anticipate a further quarter of good delivery in Q4 despite few signs of economic recovery in our major markets," said Brown.

He told reporters he would detail a new growth strategy when Rentokil publishes 2009 results in February.

The focus will on targeting sustainable organic growth in the group's pests and washrooms divisions.

"They are our biggest businesses, they account for the great majority of our 1,000 branches across the world, so we can get most leverage by focusing on pests and washrooms," said the CEO, who did not rule out small bolt-on acquisitions.

The support services company, which issued a string of profit warnings in 2007 and 2008, said its profit before tax and one-off items was 49.6 million pounds in the three months to Sept. 30.

This was ahead of analysts' consensus forecast of about 46 million pounds and compares with 16.6 million pounds in the same period last year.

The outcome was driven by good progress in fixing the firm's problem businesses, particularly City Link, and no provisions for bad debt in the period versus 6 million pounds in the same period last year.

Revenue fell 3.2 percent at constant currencies to 622.6 million pounds, the same percentage fall as the second quarter, but was up 3.6 percent at actual exchange rates. Some 70 percent of Rentokil's earnings stream is in euros.

City Link made a loss of 1.3 million pounds in the third quarter and Brown forecast it would make a full year operating loss of 7 million pounds, better than previous guidance of a loss of 12 million pounds. In 2008 it made a loss of 43 million pounds.

The CEO estimated City Link would get a 1 million to 2 million pounds profit boost from the recent strike at Royal Mail and forecast the business would be profitable in the fourth quarter and throughout 2010.

Bird Control For Homeowners

While birds can be enjoyed at times in the park or on the beach, when they get too comfortable where you live, bird control becomes necassary.

Our intentions are not to harm the birds, but rather just control the areas we don't want them living in.

Reasons To Control Birds

  • Diseases being passed to employees/customers/residents.
  • Money spent on cleaning.
  • Damage to building or equipment.
  • Dangerous, unsanitary droppings.
  • Parasites like mites, fleas, and ticks are getting into the building.
  • Drains and gutters are clogged with droppings, nesting materials.
  • Health inspectors have issued/may issue us a warning.
  • Complaints by customers or tenants.
Bird control

Many birds are friends of mankind. You might even build them houses and baths. In exchange some birds eat mosquitoes and other harmful insects. But when birds congregate on buildings, they become nuisances.


Their droppings are not only unsightly, but can harbor bacteria or corrode roofs. Nests can block air vents or present fire hazards.


A professional pest control service can provide products which discourage birds from gathering where they're not wanted. Or, if necessary, they can be trapped and relocated to a more suitable area.


Woodpeckers are a special case. Besides the annoying sound they make, they can destroy wood shingles.


Again, a pest control service is your best bet. They have products which are odorless and invisible, but taste terrible to the woodpeckers. If a woodpecker is attacking your home, it's most likely trying to get at the insects that are inside the wood. A professional pest control service will be able to inspect your home for these pests as well.



HOUSE SPARROWS
House Sparrows are the most abundant songbirds in North America and the most widely distributed birds on the planet. House Sparrows are not actually sparrows, but are Old World Weaver Finches, a family of birds noted for their ingenious nest-building abilities.
STARLINGS
Starlings were brought to North America from Europe in the late 1890s. Since that time, they have greatly increased in number and spread across most of the continent.

Adult starlings are chunky birds the size of robins. In summer their plumage is glossy purple-green with numerous white markings; the bill is yellow.

During the winter, the back feathers are much darker and edged in light brown. The bill also darkens to bluish-black. Color is identical for both sexes. The starling's most prominent feature is an unusually short tail.

Favorite foods include fruits and seeds, both wild and cultivated. Insects and other invertebrates make up about half the diet, especially during the spring breeding season. Wintering flocks often concentrate in great numbers at feedlots and livestock shelters. They consume and contaminate livestock feed and water, and "whitewash" buildings, facilities and animals with their droppings.

In winter, flocks of up to 2,000 birds can consume 1 to 2 tonnes of feed in a month and contaminate or spoil an additional 500 to 1,000 kg of feed. Starlings can also transfer many diseases between livestock animals, particularly swine.

PIGEONS

Pigeons have become an urban bird, and highly depended on humans for food, roosting and nesting areas. Pigeons are most commonly found around feeding areas, parks, schools, city buildings, bridges, homes, and many other structures.


Prevention

The removal of roosting niches and the sealing of any crevices, large openings, and entrances in high areas aids in effective control.

Available water sources, such as rooftop air conditioners, should be eliminated by screening.

Never leave food or water sources exposed outdoors.

Keep garbage containers closed.

Dispose of garbage on a regular basis.
Control

Physical Exclusion:

Netting is the best single method of reducing bird roosting, nesting and feeding. not subject to bird acclimation (i.e. they can't "get used to it") It is economically feasible over life of netting; best of all neighbours love nets compared to other bird scaring methods; There is significant cost outlay at first with on-going operating and maintenance costs.


Spike strips and wires are popular methods to prevent bird roosting on ledges. The are relatively inexpensive and not difficult to install but if not properly located they are useless.



Sound Devices:

Propane cannons, whistling or pyrotechnic pistols, predator mimicking sound generators can be effective for farm crop and fruit damaging birds , but not suitable in urban applications.


Visual Devices:

Streamers and flashtape, Scare-eye balloons

These devices can be effective on some species but not effective on robins or waxwings; cheap, relatively easy to install but are useless if not installed and maintained properly.



Hawk silhouettes, stuffed owls, etc: more realistic units on market now; cheap and easy to deploy but areonly effective for a short period of time and require very frequent moving.


Flashing Lights And Mirrors:

These are effective against starlings; solar powered units are available that require little maintenance besides frequent moving around. Lights are good at dusk and dawn only; mirrors are only good in sunshine
Trapping:

Traps can be made or purchased. Although trapping is a slow and expensive process, it is an effective means of controlling the pigeon population in a given area. Rooftops, common roosting areas, and feeding areas are generally good places for trapping.
Small traps are effective, but large walk-in types are better. It is important to bait the traps with the kind of food the birds are eating. Whole corn and grain sorghum are generally good baits.
Nearly constant maintenance of traps is needed to separate and release within 24 hours all migratory birds and non-nuisance birds.
The responsible person must understand and comply with applicable directives under the Fish and Wildlife Conservation Act.

American crows, brown-headed cowbirds, red-winged blackbirds, common grackles, starlings and house sparrows may be trapped and killed but it will not greatly affect local bird numbers.
Falconry:
This is an effective control if there is sustained activity in a large area. It is not suitable for most urban bird pest problems.Birds of prey are not pets and require significant investment in time and training for falconers. If hiring a service a long-term commitment is necessary and can be expensive.

Wasp & Hornet Control

Wasp and Hornet Control


Wasps come in many types and sizes. The ones that are of most concern to people because of their stinging habits are yellowjackets and hornets. Their social organizations range from cooperative fertile female paper wasps to the caste system of yellowjackets, in which there is a single fertile queen and a large population of smaller unmated females. Some social wasps are predators for most or all of the year and provide a great benefit by killing large numbers of plant-feeding insects and nuisance flies; others are exclusively scavengers. Yellow jackets will also forage on foods that people eat, especially sweets and meats.Due to their size and coloration these wasps are often mistaken for bees. Bees are not nearly as aggressive and are valued as major pollinators as well as honey producers.
All wasps will defend their nests, but the Yellow Jackets and hornets are the most aggressive. They can be distinguished from bees by their thin "waists." Bees are thick-waisted. They fold their wings lengthwise when at rest. The yellow jacket colony will remain active for only one summer, after which the queens will fly away to start more colonies. The remaining ones, die at the end of the summer, the nest is not reused.
Wasps become a problem only when they threaten to sting humans. One of the most troublesome of the social wasps is the yellowjacket. Yellowjackets, especially ground- and cavity-nesting ones such as the western yellowjacket, tend to defend their nests vigorously when disturbed. Defensive behavior increases as the season progresses and colony populations become larger while food becomes scarcer. In fall, foraging yellowjackets are primarily scavengers and they start to show up at picnics, barbecues, around garbage cans, at dishes of dog or cat food placed outside, and where ripe or overripe fruit are accessible. At certain times and places, the number of scavenger wasps can be quite large.

IDENTIFICATION AND LIFE CYCLE

Yellowjackets are by far the most troublesome group. Paper wasps are much less defensive and rarely sting humans. They tend to shy away from human activity except when their nests are located near doors, windows, or other high traffic areas.
Nests of both yellowjacket and paper wasps typically are begun in spring by a single queen who overwinters and becomes active when the weather warms. She emerges in late winter/early spring to feed and start a new nest. From spring to midsummer nests are in the growth phase, and the larvae require large amounts of protein. Workers forage mainly for protein at this time (usually in the form of other insects) and for some sugars. By late summer, however, the colonies grow more slowly or cease growth and require large amounts of sugar to maintain the queen and workers. So foraging wasps are particularly interested in sweet things at this time. Normally, yellowjacket and paper wasp colonies only live one season.

Yellowjackets

The term yellowjacket refers to a number of different species of wasps in the genera Vespula and Dolichovespula (family Vespidae). Included in this group of ground-nesting species are the western yellowjacket, Vespula pensylvanica, which is the most commonly encountered species and is sometimes called the "meat bee," and seven other species of Vespula. Vespula vulgaris is common in rotted tree stumps at higher elevations and V. germanica (the German yellowjacket) is becoming more common in many urban areas, where it frequently nests in houses. These wasps tend to be medium sized and black with jagged bands of bright yellow on the abdomen, and have a very short, narrow waist (the area where the thorax attaches to the abdomen).
Nests are commonly built in rodent burrows, but other protected cavities, like voids in walls and ceilings of houses, sometimes are selected as nesting sites. Colonies, which are begun each spring by a single reproductive female, can reach populations of between 1,500 and 15,000 individuals, depending on the species. The wasps build a nest of paper made from fibers scraped from wood mixed with saliva. It is built as multiple tiers of vertical cells, similar to nests of paper wasps, but enclosed by a paper envelope around the outside that usually contains a single entrance hole. If the rodent hole is not spacious enough, yellowjackets will increase the size by moistening the soil and digging. Similar behavior inside a house sometimes leads to a wet patch that develops into a hole in a wall or ceiling.
Immature yellowjackets are white, grublike larvae that become white pupae. The pupae develop adult coloring just before they emerge as adult wasps. Immatures are not normally seen unless the nest is torn open or a sudden loss of adult caretakers leads to an exodus of starving larvae.
Aerial-nesting yellowjackets build paper nests that are attached to the eaves of a building or are hanging from the limb of a tree. The entrance is normally a hole at the bottom of the nest. These aerial nesters are extremely defensive when their nests are disturbed and sometimes bite and/or sting, simultaneously. Wasp stingers have no barbs and can be used repeatedly, especially when the wasp gets inside clothing.

Paper Wasps

Paper wasps such as Polistes fuscatus aurifer, P. apachus, and P. dominulus are large (1-inch long), slender wasps with long legs and a distinct, slender waist. Background colors vary, but most western species tend to be golden brown, or darker, with large patches of yellow or red. Preferring to live in or near orchards or vineyards, they hang their paper nests in protected areas, such as under eaves, in attics, or under tree branches or vines. Each nest hangs like an open umbrella from a pedicel (stalk) and has open cells that can be seen from beneath the nest. White, legless, grublike larvae sometimes can be seen from below. Paper wasp nests rarely exceed the size of an outstretched hand and populations vary between 15 to 200 individuals. Most species are relatively unaggressive, but they can be a problem when they nest over doorways or in other areas of human activity, such as fruit trees.

Mud Daubers

Mud daubers are black and yellow, thread-waisted, solitary wasps that build a hard mud nest, usually on ceilings and walls, attended by a single female wasp. They are not social wasps but may be confused with them. They do not defend their nests and rarely sting. During winter, you can safely remove the nests without spraying.

INJURY OR DAMAGE

Concern about yellowjackets is based on their persistent, pugnacious behavior around food sources and their aggressive colony defense. Stinging behavior is usually encountered at nesting sites, but scavenging yellowjackets sometimes will sting if someone tries to swat them away from a potential food source. When scavenging at picnics or other outdoor meals, wasps will crawl into soda cans and cause stings on the lips, or inside the mouth or throat.
Responses to wasp stings vary from only short-term, intense sensations to substantial swelling and tenderness, some itching, or life-threatening allergic responses. Of specific concern is a condition that results from multiple-sting encounters, sometimes unfamiliar to attending health professionals, that is induced by the volume of foreign protein injected and the tissue damage caused by destructive enzymes in wasp venom. Red blood cells and other tissues in the body become damaged; tissue debris and other breakdown products are carried to the kidneys, to be eliminated from the body. Too much debris and waste products can cause blockages in the kidneys, resulting in renal insufficiency or renal failure. Patients in this condition require medical intervention, even dialysis.

MANAGEMENT
Most social wasps provide an extremely beneficial service by eliminating large numbers of other pest insects through predation and should be protected and encouraged to nest in areas of little human or animal activity. Although many animals prey on social wasps (including birds, reptiles, amphibians, skunks, bears, raccoons, spiders, preying mantids, and bald-faced hornets), none provides satisfactory biological control in home situations.
The best way to prevent unpleasant encounters with social wasps is to avoid them. If you know where they are, try not to go near their nesting places. Wasps can become very defensive when their nest is disturbed. Be on the lookout for nests when outdoors. Wasps that are flying directly in and out of a single location are probably flying to and from their nest.
Scavenging wasps will not usually become a problem if there is no food around to attract them. When nuisance wasps are present in the outdoor environment, keep foods (including pet food) and drinks covered or inside the house and keep garbage in tightly sealed garbage cans. Once food is discovered by wasps, they will continue to hunt around that location long after the source has been removed.
If wasp nests must be eliminated, it is easiest and safest to call for professional help.
If a rapid solution to a severe yellowjacket problem is essential, seek the assistance of a professional pest control operator who can use microencapsulated baits to control these pests. Do-it-yourself options include trapping wasps in a baited trap designed for that purpose, early-season removal of nests, or spraying the nest or nesting site with an insecticide labeled for that use.
Trapping Wasps

Trapping wasps is an ongoing effort that needs to be initiated in spring and continued into summer and fall, especially when the yellowjacket population was large the previous year. In spring there is a 30- to 45-day period when new queens first emerge before they build nests.

Trapping queens during this period has the potential to provide an overall reduction in the yellowjacket population for the season. The more traps put out in spring on an area-wide basis to trap queens, the greater the likelihood of reducing nests later in the summer. Usually one trap per acre is adequate in spring for depletion trapping of queens; in fall, more traps may be necessary to trap scavenging wasps, depending on the size of the population. There are two types of wasp traps: lure and water traps.
Lure Traps.Lure traps are available for purchase at many retail stores that sell pest control supplies and are easiest to use. They work best as queen traps in late winter and spring. In summer and fall they may assist in reducing localized foraging workers, but they do not eliminate large populations. Lure traps contain a chemical that attracts yellowjackets into the traps, but common lures such as heptyl butyrate are not equally attractive to all species.

Proteins such as lunchmeat can be added as an attractant and are believed to improve catches.
During spring, baited lure traps should have the chemical bait changed every 6 to 8 weeks. In summer, change the bait every 2 to 4 weeks; change bait more frequently when temperatures are high. Meats must be replaced more frequently because yellowjackets are not attracted to rotting meat. Also, periodically check the trap to remove trapped yellowjackets and make sure workers are still attracted to the trap.
Water Traps. Water traps are generally homemade and consist of a 5-gallon bucket, string, and protein bait (turkey ham, fish, or liver works well; do not use cat food because it may repel the yellowjackets after a few days). The bucket is filled with soapy water and the protein bait is suspended 1 to 2 inches above the water. (The use of a wide mesh screen over the bucket will help prevent other animals from reaching and consuming the bait.) After the yellowjacket removes the protein, it flies down and becomes trapped in the water and drowns. Like the lure trap, these traps also work best as queen traps in late winter to early spring. In summer and fall they may assist in reducing localized foraging workers but usually not to acceptable levels. Place them away from patio or picnic areas so wasps aren't attracted to your food as well.
Discouraging or Eliminating NestsEarly in the season, knocking down newly started paper wasp nests will simply cause the founding female to go elsewhere to start again or to join a neighboring nest as a worker. As there is little activity around wasp nests when they are first starting, they are very hard to find. Wasps are more likely to be noticed later after nests and populations grow.

Nest removal for controlling subterranean or cavity-dwelling yellowjackets is not practical because the nests are underground or otherwise inaccessible.
Nest SpraysAerosol formulations of insecticides on the market labeled for use on wasp and hornet nests can be effective against both yellowjackets and paper wasps, but they must be used with extreme caution. Wasps will attack applicators when sensing a poison applied to their nests, and even the freeze-type products are not guaranteed to stop all wasps that come flying out. It is prudent to wear protective clothing that covers the whole body, including gloves and a veil over the face. In addition, you need to wear protective eyewear and other clothing to protect yourself from pesticide hazards. Wasps are most likely to be in the nest at night. But even after dark and using formulations that shoot an insecticide stream up to 20 feet, stinging incidents are likely. Underground nests can be quite a distance from the visible entrance and the spray may not get back far enough to hit the wasps. Partially intoxicated, agitated wasps are likely to be encountered at some distance from the nest entrance, even on the day following an insecticidal treatment. Hiring a pest control professional will reduce risks to you and your family. Add this page to your list of favorite web sites.

SOCIAL WASPS

YellowjacketsDescription: 12-17.5 mm in length; head, thorax, and abdomen black and yellow or white; body fairly stout; wings smoky.
Life cycle: In the spring the fertilized female builds a small nest and begins laying eggs. She tends to the resulting larvae until the first brood matures into female workers, which rear consequent larvae and extend the nest. As many as several thousand workers may be produced in a colony in one season. Males develop from unfertilized eggs toward the end of summer and mate. At the onset of cold weather all the wasps, including the old queen, die except young mated females which over winter among leaf litter or in soil.

Habitat: They usually nest underground in an old rodent burrow, beneath a landscape timber, or in a rock wall or wall of a building, or at ground level in fallen logs and tree stumps. In urban settings they can also be found under stairs, in fence posts, brick walls and discarded mattresses, carpets, boxes, etc. The German yellowjackets are often found nesting in wall voids, attics, or crawl spaces. Whether in the ground or within a wall void, the yellowjackets nests are made of wood pulp and saliva used to form layers of cells encased in a protective paper covering.
Food: Adults feed on nectar and other insects, larvae are provided with pre-chewed insects and pieces of meat. Adults can become pests around outdoor eating areas and garbage cans because they are always scavenging for food scrapes. They also forage for sources of sugars or other carbohydrates, such as beer, fruit, and sweet beverages. As the new queens are produced in the colony in late summer, they demand sugars from the workers, which the forage aggressively for sources of sugar. They are very aggressive and will sting repeatedly at the least provocation.

Bald-faced Hornets

Description: 16-20mm in length; body stout with black and ivory white markings on the face, thorax, abdomen, and first antennal segment; wings smoky. These are not true hornets but are members of the wasp family.

Life cycle: In the spring females construct small pendant nests with a few cells and begin laying eggs. The first brood matures into female workers, which feed the larvae several times a day and continue nest expansion. In the late summer males develop out of unfertilized eggs and mate. Only young mated females survive the winter to start the cycle again in the spring.

Habitat: Gardens, parkland, meadows, and forest edges. Nests are constructed out of wood pulp and saliva and attached to branches in the open. They consist of many layers of cells encased in protective paper with an opening at the bottom. The nest resembles a large inverted teardrop shaped ball, and can contain thousands of wasps, which are extremely aggressive when disturbed.

Food: Adults consume fruit, nectar and other insects; larvae are fed pre-chewed insects.
MORE INFORMATION ON BALDFACED HORNETS: The Bald faced hornet (Dolichovespula maculata) is sometimes called the white-faced hornet, but is actually a yellowjacket. It's easy to spot since it's our only black and white yellow jacket. Its nest is a gray "paper" envelope with several layers of combs inside. A mature nest can be bigger than a basketball, but pear-shaped, with the larger end at the top and an entrance hole near the bottom. A single, over-wintering queen begins building the nest in the spring. She lays eggs and tends the first batch of larvae that develop into workers. These workers tend new larvae and expand the nest throughout the summer. A mature colony can have several hundred workers by the end of the summer. In fall, workers die and next year's queens find over-wintering sites. Baldfaced hornets are beneficial, capturing insects (often including other yellowjackets) to feed to their larvae. Though larger than other yellowjackets, Baldfaced hornets are generally more docile. But they can become aggressive and will sting when their nest is disturbed or threatened. A Baldfaced nest is usually constructed high in a tree. In these cases the nest is best left alone. In fact, Baldfaced hornet nests are often first noticed in fall when leaves drop, exposing the nest. By this time the hornets are dead or dying, and the nest will not be reused. Occasionally you will find a Baldfaced nest built on the side of a building, in low shrubbery, or even in an attic or shed. Nests in these sites will probably need to be eliminated.

Solitary Wasps

The family Sphecidae is made up of a large variety of solitary hunting wasps. There are about 1200 species in North America, many of which are common. They feed upon spiders or insects such as aphids, caterpillars and cicadas. The hunting wasps feed this prey to their young, which develop in separate nests in the ground, natural openings or in cell constructed out of mud, like the mud daubers. The hunting wasps do not live in colonies but often may nest together in large numbers at a site. The solitary hunting wasps often are rather fearsome looking but rarely sting and do so only if handled. Most of these wasps are beneficial predators of pest species and do not require control.

Black-and-yellow Mud Dauber


Description: 25-30 mm in length; long cylindrical one segmented "waist" (pedicel) between thorax and abdomen; body black with large yellow area on prothorax; yellow pattern on thorax, pedicel, and 1st segment of abdomen; legs mostly yellow; wings brown-black.

Life cycle: Solitary female builds a nest out of moist mud containing several parallel cell rows. A paralyzed spider is stuffed into each cell and one egg deposited on each spider. The female then closes the cell opening with mud. Hatching larvae slowly consume the spiders after which they pupate inside the cell. Males are rarely seen before midsummer and feed on nectar.

Habitat: Rock faces, under rocks, overhanging roofs, attics and other structures.

Food: Adults feed on nectar, larvae feed on provided spiders.

CONTROL
Unless wasps, hornets, and yellow jackets become a threat we urge you to leave them alone. They play an important role in the ecological balance of your backyard, neighborhood and local community.
Yellowjackets and hornets are outside the nest during the daylight hours. Nearly the entire colony is in the nest during the evening and nighttime hours, although some workers may be stranded away from the nest and will not return until morning. Control measures for hornets and yellowjackets should be attempted during the nighttime hours when the whole colony is in or on the nest.
There are many insecticides labeled for controlling wasps, when applied into or onto the nest. The difficulty involves making the treatment without being stung. If applications must be made during the day, protective equipment such as boots, heavy coveralls, veiled headwear, and heavy gloves should be worn. This equipment should be carefully secured in such a fashion that wasps can not slip under cuffs or other areas of the clothing. Use plenty of masking tape wrapped around the bottoms of pant legs and sleeves and around the collar.
An aerosol spray of one of the many fast-acting wasp killer aerosols will quickly kill most workers present in ariel nests.
The most difficult problems in wasp control are generally those that involve large aerial nests of yellowjackets or bald-faced hornets and ground or structural nests of yellowjackets. Control of aerial nests of hornets and yellowjackets should be attempted only while wearing a full set of protective equipment. Direct the spray into the hole at the bottom of the nest, being careful not to break open the side of the nest. Within a few hours, or certainly by the next day, all the colony members should be killed by this initial application.
Control of ground-nesting yellowjacket nests is best done at night for safety reasons. The nest entrance should be located during the daytime and marked in some way for easy and precise location in the evening. When the nest is approached at night, it is a good idea to have the available light (spotlight or flashlight) set and focused on the nest from a distance, off to the side. Do not hold it in your hand, because it may attract attacking workers. It is safest to wear protective clothing. Approach the nest slowly and carefully.
The quickest and surest way to kill the colony is with insecticide dust. The only product registered for wasp control in The United States is sold only to certified applicators. Dust will travel deeper into the void, in the ground or wall, than will an aerosol wasp killer.
Mud daubers are not aggressive about defending nests under construction. However, protective clothing should be worn. A residual insecticide liquid or dust application to the mud nests and the surfaces in the immediate area will provide effective control. Then, scrape away and remove the nests, if possible.
If you are allergic or hypersensitive to wasp or bee stings you should not attempt to control these insects and should call a professional pest control company. Or if you do not have the proper equipment call a professional pest control company.

Wasp Traps (Make your own traps)
Keeps yellow jackets away from desired area( however will not kill out the entire colony). Safe. Non toxic. Traps place and maintained in the early spring will help to severely reduce the yellow jacket population in the fall. For every female you capture in the early spring, that will eliminate a yellow jacket nest of 500 to 5,000. Fruit juice or meat are lures that work well. Placement of the trap:
1. Place traps away from all human activity.
2. Hang traps 2-4 feet above ground.
3. Yellow Jacket Traps should be baited and placed either early morning or late evening when the yellow jackets are least likely to be active.
4. Place traps in sunny areas when temperature is below 80-85 degrees F. Place traps in shaded area when temperature is above 85 degrees F.
5. If Yellow Jacket catch is low, relocate the trap. Leave trap in an area for at least 2 days.
Maintenance:
1. Before emptying traps, make sure all yellow jackets are dead.
2. If live yellow jackets are present, they must be killed before opening the trap by : a. Pouring soapy water into the trap or b. Placing entire trap in a freezer for 48 hours.
.3. Trap should be emptied and cleaned every 3-4 weeks. Traps must be kept clean.

Hints: Only the fertilized female yellow jacket survives over winter. All males die during the winter. This may be the reason they are so aggressive in the early fall and know this is their last "Hoorah".
When fertilized females emerge from hibernation in early spring, she needs protein to nurse her young offspring. To start with she is a single mom doing it all until she can raise some workers.

Outdoor events wasp control
Late-summer and fall yellowjackets are much tougher to eliminate. Yellowjackets can be foraging from dozens of hidden nests in the area, each nest containing thousands of workers, and they may come from nests 1,000 ft. or more away.
Yellowjackets change their feeding behavior in late summer. No longer the beneficial, insect-eating predators they were in the spring and summer, they have become freeloaders — scavenging on fruits, ice cream, beer and soft drinks. They are aggressive and willing to sting.
Yellowjacket management at parks, festivals, football games and similar outdoor events can be the worst job of all. The sheer numbers of yellowjackets can be intimidating. And there is so much sweet, rich food to attract them.
IPM now prevents trouble laterYou can often avoid severe yellowjacket problems in the fall by eliminating workers and nests in late spring and summer, when yellowjacket workers are few and their nests are still small.
Monitoring is the key. Monitoring — documented and systematic inspections at regular intervals — is a critical part of IPM, and essential for yellowjacket management.
Check around a property frequently. Look for yellowjacket nests or foraging yellowjackets. Install a few yellowjacket traps (how many will depend on the area) and check them at each visit. Check the traps weekly or biweekly in July and August, if possible, because this is the critical period to head off fall problems.
If the traps begin catching yellowjackets, place enough additional traps that they become control tools, reducing the numbers of yellowjacket workers. See if you can track foraging workers back to their nests. Mark all the nests you find, and come back at night to destroy the nests when most of the yellowjackets are inside.
Do not quit when you find a yellowjacket nest; there may be many more. Keep monitoring and keep looking.
Using traps for control:Trapping will not eliminate yellowjackets. But aggressive trapping — using lots and lots of traps — will significantly reduce the number of fall foraging yellowjackets and the risk of stings.
You can choose from many different commercial yellowjacket traps. Some are disposable; most come with bait or bait enhancers. Some drown the trapped yellowjackets; others hold them until they die from heat or until you kill them.
Not all yellowjacket species respond equally well to all traps or all baits. Different colonies of the same species will even exhibit preference differences. The time of the year also affects bait choice.
Experiment with different baits and traps to find the most suitable one for a particular site. Place traps according to the manufacturer’s directions. Do not stint; you need lots of traps to get effective population reduction.
Sanitation’s roleForaging yellowjackets are attracted to areas where food is readily available.

Their numbers and the risk of stings can be reduced, sometimes quite significantly, simply by changing trash and food management practices.
Although yellowjackets are not the first pest to come to mind when thinking IPM, they are actually very susceptible to the IPM approach. Fall yellowjacket problems at outdoor events, in fact, can only be successfully managed through IPM. Insecticides alone will have little effect.

Rat Control

Rat Control






Rats spread disease and can cause serious damage to your home's structure. Learn how to tackle these uninvited pests with the following tips:





How do I identify a rat?

The Norway rat or sewer rat is classified as a rodent. They measure about 25cm (excluding the tail) and have an average weight of 335g. The colour of their fur is brown, grey or less commonly black. Rats are nocturnal, although they can sometimes be seen during the day. They are active burrowers, good climbers and reasonably good swimmers (often leading to confusion with water voles). They have poor eyesight and are colour blind, but have acute hearing and a good sense of smell and taste.

Rats are capable of reproducing at 3-4 months old, and can have 3-6 litters per year, depending upon food availability and location. The litter size can be around 6-11 young, with a lifespan of between 12-19 months. It is said that there are 5 rats for every human being on the earth, which means you're no more than 15 metres from one at any given time. If you live in New York, this figure rises to a rat proximity of 5 metres.


Where do rats live?

Although rats are found in most parts of the world, it's believed they spread by ship from Eastern Asia. They are mainly found in close contact with human beings.
Rats generally move to buildings in autumn and winter for shelter and food; they're often found in warehouses, farms and roof spaces of houses. In summer they return to the open countryside to feed on growing vegetation. If food is available at a site all year round however, such as on farms or urban refuse tips, the rats will attempt to stay on site permanently. Within these habitats, they burrow into earth banks, compost heaps and the structure of buildings and sewers. They also inhabit undisturbed storage areas such as haystacks and tyre heaps or pallets, especially if these areas are close to food.


Favourite habitats:


Outside:

-Under wood piles or lumber that is not being used often

-Under bushes and vines and in tall thick grass

-In appliances and old furniture that is left outside and is not being used

-In and around garbage and trash that has been left out

-In holes or gaps under buildings




Inside:

-Inside the insulation of walls or ceilings

-In or behind cupboards, counters and bathtubs

-Near the boiler

-In basements or attics where things like cardboard and cloth are stored




What do rats eat?

The type of food favoured by the common rat is cereal, but being survivors, they are known to eat anything, including each other. Rats need to continuously gnaw in order to file down their teeth.

On average, they consume 25-30g of food and drink approximately 60ml of water per day.

When in the house, they eat anything not sealed in an air tight container. They can eat most food stored in paper, plastic or cardboard containers.


What attracts rats?


The following outlines the main attractions to rats:
-Uncollected garbage and debris

-Food for pets and birds that has been left out and not eaten

-Fruits and berries that have fallen to the ground

-Compost pile that is not taken care of in the correct way

-Dog droppings




How do I know if I have a rat problem?

The most common signs are rat droppings (typically 12mm long) found near food sources, along with evidence of gnawing, burrows, nests and greasy rub marks along walls/ floors.


Are rats harmful?

Yes. Rats contaminate everything they encounter with droppings, urine and hairs. They carry a wide range of diseases and parasites that are harmful to humans and animals. In particular around 20% of rats carry Leptospirosis, or Weil's disease, which can be fatal to humans. Other diseases, such as Toxoplasmosis and Salmonella, affect both humans and animals.

Another significant problem is the considerable structural damage rats can cause from their gnawing and burrowing activities. This ranges from minor holes in walls/doors/furniture/cupboards to structural collapse, flooding, electrical faults and fire (they gnaw through cables).


How can I prevent having rats in my home?

Preventative measures are important, otherwise the underlying causes of a rat problem will remain, inevitably causing re-infestation to occur. Since rats can squeeze through a hole the size of a thumb, ensure you thoroughly block the openings in your home where they tend to gain entrance. Spray foam, chicken wire and cement are examples of solutions for this purpose. The following measures act as deterrents:



  • Keep food in food in rodent proof containers.

  • Cover holes/gaps in walls and around pipes.

  • Fix a bristle strip to the bottom of doors. This can be bought at your local DIY store.

  • Use thin wire mesh to cover ventilation holes.

  • Place wire balloons (less than $2 from builders' supply store) in the top of drain pipes.

  • Fit cone guards to the bottom of drain pipes to prevent them from crawling up.

  • Dispose of rubbish and clear up spillages.

  • Don't leave food lying around either inside or outside your home.

  • Clear up fallen fruit from trees and leftover bird food in your garden.

  • If you regularly find litter around your home from local shops, call your local council to arrange for them to clear it up.

  • Stack wood 18 inches off the ground.

  • Make sure birdhouses and trays are out of reach.

  • Keep garbage lids closed.

  • When planting bushes make sure they're at least 3 feet from your house.

  • Short, tidy vegetation in your garden exposes rats to predators (in fact, encouraging predators, particularly cats, may provide additional protection).

  • Keep yards and alleys clean.

  • Don't compost any animal products (fish, meat, cheese or butter).
How do I get rid of rats?

Despite good standards of hygiene and proofing, infestations sometimes occur. When this happens it's important to act fast, since the longer you leave it, the greater and more costly your problem becomes - a pair of rats can start a colony that produces up to 800 babies a year.

If you decide to tackle the problem yourself, first identify where the rats are living, feeding and drinking, as well as the routes they take between these areas. Look for holes, burrows, droppings and footprints. Find out how they're getting into your home by blocking any holes with newspaper (or similar) and coming back a day later to see which holes have been re-opened. You can then permanently block these access points.

The following options will help you tackle the problem:


Chemicals for rat removal:

Be aware that this method involves rodenticides/ poisons which are also toxic to humans and animals. Take care to read the product label before use and follow the label instructions. Another concern with this option is that the rats may die in hard to reach areas of your home, preventing you from disposing of them.


Traps for rat removal:

These come in various sizes and forms, such as glue traps. They're environmentally friendly, widely available and effective if placed in the right locations. The drawbacks are that this method can be cruel to the rodent and you may have to kill it yourself once it's caught. You will also need to dispose of the rat.



Electronic rat removal:

This is a non-toxic way of killing rats. They are attracted to the unit using peanut butter placed inside the trap - a footplate is depressed once they enter which triggers an electric volt. The trap is designed so that there's no need to touch a dead body, you simply empty the trap into a bin.
For more humane solutions, there are the following options:


Cage Traps for rat removal:

The device captures the rats for release elsewhere. The drawback is that the rats could become a problem in another home - beware the saying: 'What goes around comes around'!


Repeller & Ultrasonic Devices for rat removal:

For an outdoor deterrent, a Repeller can be used. It has a motion detector which when triggered by movement emits a powerful burst of water, harmlessly scaring the rats away. This device may give your pets a slight scare however.

While there are many options to help you rid your property of rats, be aware that rats are not highly inquisitive and trapping requires expertise. Ultrasonic devices don't work and rats are becoming immune to weaker DIY products. If you've tried to tackle the infestation yourself without success, or if you simply don't want to take care of the problem yourself, contact a professional pest control company.

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