Bed Bug Extermination Guide

Bed bugs - what are they?
Bed bugs have an oval broad, flat body and a short, broad head. Shaped similar to an apple seed, unfed adults are around 6 to 10 mm long and brown and wingless. After feeding, they swell slightly in size and darken to a blood-red colour. The nymphs are shaped like the adults, but are yellow-white in colour.

Itchy welts on skin and/or black or brown spots on mattresses sheets, bed frames or walls often indicate that there is a bed bug infestation.

Bed bugs are also known by several names: wall louse, house bug, mahogany flat, red coat, crimson ramblers as well as others.

The bed bug eggs are white, about 1 mm long (1/25 inch), and are almost impossible to see on most surfaces. The female bed bug lays at least 200 eggs in her lifetime, at a rate of about two or four per day. The eggs have a sticky coating and are deposited in cracks and crevices, behind woodwork and similar hidden locations. They usually hatch in six to 17 days.

Newly hatched nymphs feed as soon as food is available. A bed bug goes through five moults before it reaches full maturity. Adults usually live for around 10 months, but can live for a year or more in a home where the environment is good for reproduction, with temperatures ranging between 21°C and 28°C, making it ideal for breeding year round.

Bed bugs can live from several weeks up to roughly a year and a half without feeding. Older bed bugs can go even longer without feeding.

What can they do?
Bed bugs can cause allergic reactions and itchy welts. Allergic sensitivity can increase if exposure is prolonged. They do not however pose a major health risk and are not known carriers of blood-borne diseases. Bed bug bites may not be noticed immediately because bed bugs typically feed at night when people are asleep.

Bed bugs are wingless and cannot fly or jump, but are able to hide in extremely small locations because of their flattened bodies - under wallpaper, behind picture frames, in electrical outlets, inside box springs, in mattress pads and in night tables. Long considered eradicated in most metropolitan areas, bed bugs are making a comeback. People now travel more than ever before, and bed bugs are hitching rides on clothing and luggage. They can now be found everywhere there is a high turnover of people, from homeless shelters to five-star hotels. They can also be accidentally transported around the house on objects. Bed bugs do not indicate a lack of cleanliness.

How can I manage them?
Because bed bugs are hard to get rid of, a pest control operator is a simple solution. Alternatively, you may decide to control them yourself. Usually more than one chemical treatment is required, and must be done in addition to physical control.

Be thorough in addressing bed bug infestations, because bed bugs travel easily, you may have to treat nearby rooms. Remove or reduce any clutter that might transport bed bugs.

Bed treatment
Infested mattresses should be steam-cleaned. Take care to use steam that is hot enough, and avoid excess moisture which could lead to mould. Inspect your bed thoroughly by examining the seams, tufts and crevices of the mattress as well as the box spring, bed frame and headboard. You may have to remove the cloth underside of the box spring to determine if there are bugs inside. Mattress pads and sheets should be washed in hot water and dried on the high setting. Infested areas should be vacuumed carefully with a brush attachment. Afterwards, dispose of the vacuum bag immediately and inspect the brush attachment for bed bugs. Bed bugs cannot easily climb metal or polished surfaces and cannot fly or jump. Treat the legs of beds to keep them away. Coat the legs with double-sided carpet tape or petroleum jelly, you can also place the legs of the bed inside glass jars or metal cans.

You may have to discard your bed. Holes or worn spots in the fabric may allow bed bugs to lay eggs in areas not easily reached, and there are restrictions on how insecticides can be used on beds.

Treatment of other items
Carefully examine all night tables, baseboards, dressers, headboards (especially padded ones), electrical outlets, any items stored near or under the bed, any nearby carpeting or rugs, picture frames, switch plates, inside clocks, phones, televisions and smoke detectors - in short, anything and everything that is in the room where the infestation has been noted. Upholstered chairs and sofas can also harbour bed bugs and should be treated with careful vacuuming and laundering of all possible parts (cushions, slipcovers, skirts, etc.).

Smaller items that cannot be laundered can sometimes be treated by heating (temperatures greater than 50°C) or freezing. Some items can be wrapped in plastic wrap and placed outdoors on a hot sunny day or in sub-zero temperatures in the winter. However, the freezing temperatures must be maintained for a prolonged period of time (e.g., four days of cold exposure at 0°C) to ensure that the bed bugs are killed.

Prevention
To prevent future bed bug infestations, mattresses must be completely enclosed. They can be wrapped in zippered bed encasements available from allergy supply companies, with duct tape over the zipper. Mattresses can also be wrapped and sealed in plastic film. Be cautious about taking in second-hand furniture, bedding, mattresses or beds. Inspect and clean them before bringing them home. When you travel, inspect the mattress and headboard in the hotel room, do not bring your pillow from home, and do not put your suitcase on the bed.

Products
Domestic class products available to homeowners will generally contain the active ingredients pyrethrin or diatomaceous earth.

Several commercial class products are available to professional pest control operators. These may include low-odour sprays, dusts or aerosols; your pest control operator will select the best product for your particular situation.

Note: Bed bug infestations can be extremely difficult to treat, and repeat applications may be required. Always follow the pesticide label directions to minimize exposure and maximize efficacy of the product. Between applications of pesticide products, keep monitoring the situation to physically control ongoing and prevent future infestations.

Responsible Pesticide Use
Before Purchasing a Pesticide
•Identify the pest correctly.
•Use physical control methods and alternatives to pesticides.
•Read the label directions and safety precautions before buying the product. The label must include the name of the pest to be controlled and the treatment location (e.g., indoor, outdoor, garden uses, pet treatment).
•Purchase only the quantity of product needed for the treatment.
•Consider hiring a licensed pest control operator.

Using a Pesticide
•Carefully read all label instructions and precautions before using pesticides.
•Do not drink, eat or smoke while applying pesticides.
•Persons and pets should vacate the area during treatment. Cover or remove aquaria.
•If kitchen area is to be treated, cover or remove food, dishes and utensils.

After Using a Pesticide
•Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling any pesticide product.
•Do not permit persons or pets to contact treated surfaces until residue has dried completely.
•Provide adequate ventilation of treated areas after use.
•Wipe clean all surfaces that come in direct contact with food, such as counters, tables and stovetops, including indoor and outdoor surfaces.
•Always store pesticides out of reach of children and pets and away from food and beverages.

Accidental Poisoning
•Call a poison control centre immediately and seek medical attention.
•Take the pesticide container or label with you to the emergency facility or physician.
•Follow first aid statements on the label.
•In case of accidental poisoning of pets seek veterinary attention immediately.
•Report pesticide incidents to manufacturers (phone number on label). They are required to send them to Health Canada.

Disposing of Pesticides
•Do not reuse empty pesticide containers. Wrap and dispose of in household garbage.
•Follow the product label instructions or contact provincial authorities for disposal of pesticides.
Note:
•These are general recommendations.
•Consult the label for specific instructions.

Mr. Roach

Mr. Roach
Cockroach extermination tutorial. I can't believe this method was standard practice!!! A house wife using Chlordane right out of a jar!

Spider Removal: Pest Control For Spiders

Spider Removal

Spiders have an ominous, but often undeserved reputation. Though most spiders are venomous and considered predators, of the thousands of species found in The United States, few are actually considered a health threat. In fact, spiders are actually helpful in controlling other pests in the home or garden since they feed on other insects and spiders. They generally bite and inject venom into their prey. Spiders, however, rarely bite humans.

Although spiders are often unpopular, the venom of most species is not very toxic to humans, usually resulting in no more than a slight swelling, inflammation, or itching sensation. Most spiders’ fangs are too small or weak to puncture human skin. Spiders usually will not attempt to bite unless accidentally trapped against the skin or grasped, although some species actively guard their egg sacs or young.

Two spiders that can be a health risk are the brown recluse and black widow.

One of the most common misconceptions about spiders is that they are insects. Spiders are arachnids and are actually closely related to mites, ticks and scorpions. Spiders have two body parts (cephalothorax and abdomen), eight legs and usually six to eight eyes, while insects are classified by having three body parts (head, thorax and abdomen), six legs, and generally two compound eyes or up to three single eyes. The average life span of a spider is usually one to two years, but some can live five years and up to 20 years.


Life Cycle and Habits
Spiders lay eggs within a silken egg sac that is often ball-shaped and either hidden in a web, affixed to a surface, or carried by the female. Spiders may produce several egg sacs, each containing up to several hundred eggs. A spider grows by shedding its skin (molting), usually four to twelve times before maturity. In many species, the mature male often wanders about in search of a mate. Some species of spiders may live for years, but most spiders only survive for one season.

All spiders produce silk, which is secreted as a liquid through the spinnerets and hardens on air contact. Spiders use silk for a variety of purposes, such as making egg sacs, capturing prey, holding prey, making shelters or retreats, and transferring sperm during mating. Also, spiderlings extrude silk threads that enable them to be transported by air currents, a process called “ballooning.”

Spiders are predators that typically feed on living prey. They produce venom that is poisonous to their normal prey of insects, mites, and other small arthropods. Venom is injected through the hollow fangs to immobilize the prey and begin the digestion process. Spiders can only ingest liquids, so they either inject or regurgitate digestive fluids into the prey. They then suck in the digested liquid food.

Spiders use a variety of tactics to capture prey. Some species are web builders that use webbing to ensnare their prey. Others are active hunters that actively search for their prey. Passive hunters are spiders that lay in wait for their prey rather than searching for it.


Control Measures
The simplest method of controlling spider infestation is to reduce the pest population (other insects) inside the home so they seek a more dependable food supply outside the home. Control of spiders is best achieved by following an integrated pest management (IPM) approach that involves multiple tactics, such as preventive measures, exclusion, sanitation, and chemicals applied to targeted sites. IPM requires a thorough inspection of the building to locate the pest and its harborages. An inspection should be done at night if the species is nocturnal.

Toronto Public Health

Bed Bugs


Introduction
Over the last couple of years, Toronto Public Health has received an increase in calls regarding bed bugs. It is possible for anyone to become infested with bed bugs, which are small biting insects that multiply quickly and travel easily. An infestation can cause anxiety and a feeling of shame. They can also cause secondary infections, allergic reactions and financial hardship.






For the public
If you are concerned about bed bugs.
http://www.toronto.ca/health/bedbugs/infoforpublic.htm


Fact Sheets
Learn how to prevent or treat infestations.
http://www.toronto.ca/health/bedbugs/factsheets.htm


Toronto Bed Bug Project Survey
Fill out our confidential online survey
http://www.toronto.ca/health/bedbugs/survey.htm


The Toronto Bed Bug Project
Community partners seeking solutions.
http://www.toronto.ca/health/bedbugs/torontobedbugproject.htm

Rat Control

Rat Control






Rats spread disease and can cause serious damage to your home's structure. Learn how to tackle these uninvited pests with the following tips:





How do I identify a rat?

The Norway rat or sewer rat is classified as a rodent. They measure about 25cm (excluding the tail) and have an average weight of 335g. The colour of their fur is brown, grey or less commonly black. Rats are nocturnal, although they can sometimes be seen during the day. They are active burrowers, good climbers and reasonably good swimmers (often leading to confusion with water voles). They have poor eyesight and are colour blind, but have acute hearing and a good sense of smell and taste.

Rats are capable of reproducing at 3-4 months old, and can have 3-6 litters per year, depending upon food availability and location. The litter size can be around 6-11 young, with a lifespan of between 12-19 months. It is said that there are 5 rats for every human being on the earth, which means you're no more than 15 metres from one at any given time. If you live in New York, this figure rises to a rat proximity of 5 metres.


Where do rats live?

Although rats are found in most parts of the world, it's believed they spread by ship from Eastern Asia. They are mainly found in close contact with human beings.
Rats generally move to buildings in autumn and winter for shelter and food; they're often found in warehouses, farms and roof spaces of houses. In summer they return to the open countryside to feed on growing vegetation. If food is available at a site all year round however, such as on farms or urban refuse tips, the rats will attempt to stay on site permanently. Within these habitats, they burrow into earth banks, compost heaps and the structure of buildings and sewers. They also inhabit undisturbed storage areas such as haystacks and tyre heaps or pallets, especially if these areas are close to food.


Favourite habitats:


Outside:

-Under wood piles or lumber that is not being used often

-Under bushes and vines and in tall thick grass

-In appliances and old furniture that is left outside and is not being used

-In and around garbage and trash that has been left out

-In holes or gaps under buildings




Inside:

-Inside the insulation of walls or ceilings

-In or behind cupboards, counters and bathtubs

-Near the boiler

-In basements or attics where things like cardboard and cloth are stored




What do rats eat?

The type of food favoured by the common rat is cereal, but being survivors, they are known to eat anything, including each other. Rats need to continuously gnaw in order to file down their teeth.

On average, they consume 25-30g of food and drink approximately 60ml of water per day.

When in the house, they eat anything not sealed in an air tight container. They can eat most food stored in paper, plastic or cardboard containers.


What attracts rats?


The following outlines the main attractions to rats:
-Uncollected garbage and debris

-Food for pets and birds that has been left out and not eaten

-Fruits and berries that have fallen to the ground

-Compost pile that is not taken care of in the correct way

-Dog droppings




How do I know if I have a rat problem?

The most common signs are rat droppings (typically 12mm long) found near food sources, along with evidence of gnawing, burrows, nests and greasy rub marks along walls/ floors.


Are rats harmful?

Yes. Rats contaminate everything they encounter with droppings, urine and hairs. They carry a wide range of diseases and parasites that are harmful to humans and animals. In particular around 20% of rats carry Leptospirosis, or Weil's disease, which can be fatal to humans. Other diseases, such as Toxoplasmosis and Salmonella, affect both humans and animals.

Another significant problem is the considerable structural damage rats can cause from their gnawing and burrowing activities. This ranges from minor holes in walls/doors/furniture/cupboards to structural collapse, flooding, electrical faults and fire (they gnaw through cables).


How can I prevent having rats in my home?

Preventative measures are important, otherwise the underlying causes of a rat problem will remain, inevitably causing re-infestation to occur. Since rats can squeeze through a hole the size of a thumb, ensure you thoroughly block the openings in your home where they tend to gain entrance. Spray foam, chicken wire and cement are examples of solutions for this purpose. The following measures act as deterrents:

• Keep food in food in rodent proof containers.


• Cover holes/gaps in walls and around pipes.


• Fix a bristle strip to the bottom of doors. This can be bought at your local DIY store.


• Use thin wire mesh to cover ventilation holes.


• Place wire balloons (less than $2 from builders' supply store) in the top of drain pipes.


• Fit cone guards to the bottom of drain pipes to prevent them from crawling up.


• Dispose of rubbish and clear up spillages.


• Don't leave food lying around either inside or outside your home.


• Clear up fallen fruit from trees and leftover bird food in your garden.


• If you regularly find litter around your home from local shops, call your local council to arrange for them to clear it up.


• Stack wood 18 inches off the ground.


• Make sure birdhouses and trays are out of reach.


• Keep garbage lids closed.


• When planting bushes make sure they're at least 3 feet from your house.


• Short, tidy vegetation in your garden exposes rats to predators (in fact, encouraging predators, particularly cats, may provide additional protection).


• Keep yards and alleys clean.


• Don't compost any animal products (fish, meat, cheese or butter).
  

How do I get rid of rats?

Despite good standards of hygiene and proofing, infestations sometimes occur. When this happens it's important to act fast, since the longer you leave it, the greater and more costly your problem becomes - a pair of rats can start a colony that produces up to 800 babies a year.

If you decide to tackle the problem yourself, first identify where the rats are living, feeding and drinking, as well as the routes they take between these areas. Look for holes, burrows, droppings and footprints. Find out how they're getting into your home by blocking any holes with newspaper (or similar) and coming back a day later to see which holes have been re-opened. You can then permanently block these access points.

The following options will help you tackle the problem:


Chemicals for rat removal:

Be aware that this method involves rodenticides/ poisons which are also toxic to humans and animals. Take care to read the product label before use and follow the label instructions. Another concern with this option is that the rats may die in hard to reach areas of your home, preventing you from disposing of them.


Traps for rat removal:

These come in various sizes and forms, such as glue traps. They're environmentally friendly, widely available and effective if placed in the right locations. The drawbacks are that this method can be cruel to the rodent and you may have to kill it yourself once it's caught. You will also need to dispose of the rat.



Electronic rat removal:

This is a non-toxic way of killing rats. They are attracted to the unit using peanut butter placed inside the trap - a footplate is depressed once they enter which triggers an electric volt. The trap is designed so that there's no need to touch a dead body, you simply empty the trap into a bin.
For more humane solutions, there are the following options:


Cage Traps for rat removal:

The device captures the rats for release elsewhere. The drawback is that the rats could become a problem in another home - beware the saying: 'What goes around comes around'!


Repeller & Ultrasonic Devices for rat removal:

For an outdoor deterrent, a Repeller can be used. It has a motion detector which when triggered by movement emits a powerful burst of water, harmlessly scaring the rats away. This device may give your pets a slight scare however.

While there are many options to help you rid your property of rats, be aware that rats are not highly inquisitive and trapping requires expertise. Ultrasonic devices don't work and rats are becoming immune to weaker DIY products. If you've tried to tackle the infestation yourself without success, or if you simply don't want to take care of the problem yourself, contact a professional pest control company.