Mice In Spaaaace!

Atlantis leaves station as NASA eyes shuttles' end

By Irene Klotz
CAPE CANAVERAL, Florida (Reuters) - Space shuttle Atlantis left the International Space Station on Wednesday after a seven-day stay to deliver gear to keep the outpost operating after the shuttle program is retired next year.

Space station flight engineer Nicole Stott joined the six Atlantis astronauts for the return trip home. She is expected to be the last station crewmember to catch a ride on the shuttle. Atlantis is due back at the Kennedy Space Center in Florida on Friday.

"Thank you for a great mission," Jeff Williams, commander of the station, radioed to Stott as the shuttle prepared to leave at 4:53 a.m. EST (0953 GMT). "Bon voyage."

The United States is retiring its three-ship shuttle fleet in 2010 after five more missions to complete construction and outfitting of the $100 billion space station. The station, a project of 16 nations, then will be serviced by Russian, European and Japanese cargo ships, though none can transport the heavy pumps, tanks and gyroscopes carried by the shuttle.

Astronauts will fly exclusively on Russian Soyuz capsules at a cost of about $50 million a seat.

The United States has been developing a replacement for the space shuttles, but it is not expected to unveil it until 2015 at the earliest. An advisory panel tapped by the Obama administration to assess NASA's human space programs determined the new spaceship won't be ready until 2017.

In addition to flying to the station, which currently is funded only through 2015, the new ships are being designed to fly astronauts to the moon and other destinations in the solar system. The program, however, is under review.

Stott's departure comes six days before three more station crewmembers are due to return to Earth, leaving the complex with a two-man crew for the first time since 2006. Replacements are due to arrive December 23. The station won't reach a full, six-member crew again until March.

During Atlantis' mission, astronauts conducted three spacewalks to install antennas, science experiments, cargo mounts and other tasks. They are returning with the station's broken urine-recycling system, which purifies wastewater into potable water.

Also returning to Earth are six mice that have been aboard the station since late August for science experiments. Three of the mice died while in space, though scientists are not sure why.

NASA's next trip to the outpost is expected in February when shuttle Endeavour delivers the station's final connecting hub and a six-sided cupola that will give the outpost a 360-degree viewing port.

(Editing by Paul Simao)

Bed Bug Mattress Encasement Covers

Bed Bug Mattress Encasement Covers
By Mike L. Evans


Bed Bug Mattress Encasement Covers are vital to protecting your bed from bedbugs. If you have ever had them, you need to purchase mattress covers for bed bugs if you own an old mattress or even if you buy a new mattress. This is confusing for some people, so let me try to explain why this is the case.

When bedbugs infest a home, they live in the walls, the floors, under carpets, and a whole variety of other places. Due to the nature of bedbug behavior, bed bug treatments are often not successful the first time. You need to understand that these bugs will continue to infest your home until you can fully exterminate your home.

If you live in a dorm room or apartment or any shared living condition, you should realize that your chances of eliminating them forever are diminished greatly. Shared wall conditions present some of the most challenging scenarios for pest control companies. The bedbugs can easily move from one room to another room, so unless you treat an entire building for bedbugs, you are likely going to have to deal with them for sometime. If you do not purchase a new mattress encasement for bugs, a new mattress will be infested just as easily as an old mattress.

Do not waste your money on an new mattress if you are dealing with bed bugs. Make sure you eliminate the problem first, and then you can buy the new mattress. As I already stated, make sure you purchase a mattress encasement even with a new mattress so that your new mattress is not infested. You want to get help for your embarrassing problem so you do not have to deal with them anymore.

You cannot possibly learn everything you need to know about bedbugs from reading this one article about bed bug mattress encasement covers. I encourage you to check out other popular sites on the internet about bedbugs to get all of the information you need to make an informed decision and get rid of the bedbugs forever.

Bedbug Mattress Encasement is a great resource that goes into much more detail about how to get rid of bedbugs. With bed bugs, how to get rid of them is not going to be an easy task. With proper methods, it is possible to get rid of bed bugs forever!








Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mike_L._Evans

Bed Bug Stats

Bedbug treatments by Orkin Pest Control in Canadian cities (2005 & 2006)
The following statistics are just a sampling of a pest control company's treatments in Canadian dwellings, including houses, apartments, dormitories and hotels. The company, Orkin Pest Control, is just one of many large pest control agencies. Time periods range for each region. The 2006 stats are for January to October, unless otherwise stated.

TORONTO NORTH
2006: 200 treatments thus far for 2006 or about 10% of total service for branch
Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Hotels
Motels
Dormitories

2005: 150 treatmentsFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Hotels
Motels

VANCOUVER/BURNABY
2006: 50 treatments thus far (huge hotel/motel business) or 25% of total service for branchFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Hospitals
Dormitories

Note: This branch performs so many bedbugs treatments that they are hiring 2 more technicians who will do nothing but handle bedbugs treatments.

2005: 35 treatments Facilities treated:
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Dormitories

STONEY CREEK
2006: 200 treatments thus far or about 5% of total service for branchFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes

2005: 100 treatmentsFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes

SASKATCHEWAN
2006: 125 treatments thus far or 10% of total service for branchFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Dormitories

2005: 75 treatments Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Dormitories

OTTAWA
2006: 500 treatments thus far or 30% of total service for branchFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes
Dormitories
Low income housing (surge in the number of infestations in these residences)

2005: 200 treatmentsFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes

NOVA SCOTIA
2006: 300 treatments thus far or 10% of total service for branchFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Government buildings
Group homes
Dormitories

2005: 250 treatmentsFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes
Low income housing (surge in the number of infestations in these residences)

CALGARY
2006: 200 treatments thus far or 20% of total service for branch Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes
Dormitories

2005: 200 (the past 5 years have been steadily busy) Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes
Dormitories

VANCOUVER ISLAND
2006: 250 treatments thus far or about 5% of total services for branch Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Correctional facilities
Government buildings
Military bases
Group homes
Dormitories
Cruise ships
Airplanes

2005: 200 treatments total Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Correctional facilities
Government buildings
Military bases
Group homes
Dormitories
Cruise ships
Airplanes

VALLEY/MAPLE RIDGE
2006: 100 treatments thus far or about 10% of total services for branch Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels

2005: 85 treatments Facilities treated:
Apartments
Hotels
Motels

Rentokil turnaround on track but shares fall

LONDON, Nov 6 (Reuters) - British pest control to parcel delivery firm Rentokil Initial (RTO.L) said its five-year turnaround plan was gathering pace as it posted an 82 percent increase in third-quarter profit and forecast more progress in the balance of 2009.

However, shares in the firm, whose businesses also include cleaning and the hiring out of uniforms and tropical plants, fell 7 percent as investors booked profits on concerns over the outlook for 2010.

The stock was down 7.9 pence at 104.1 pence at 1115 GMT, valuing the business at 2 billion pounds ($3.30 billion).

Before Friday's update, Rentokil shares had more than doubled over the last year, outperforming the DJ Stoxx European industrial goods and services sector index .SXNP by 65 percent.

"It would be tempting to believe that the lower (Q3) losses in parcels (Rentokil's City Link business) mark a change of fortunes for Rentokil and the share price is certainly reflecting this.

However, the outlook for the group is still uncertain and we retain our sell stance," said Seymour Pierce analyst Kevin Lapwood.

"The shares are trading on over 20 times our FY 2009 estimates, which now looks too high for a late cycle services company."

Rentokil brought in Alan Brown and John McAdam -- who together led a turnaround at British chemicals group ICI -- as CEO and chairman last year.

The pair are trying to reverse years of underperformance and botched acquisitions by improving customer service, operational efficiency and cutting costs.

"We anticipate a further quarter of good delivery in Q4 despite few signs of economic recovery in our major markets," said Brown.

He told reporters he would detail a new growth strategy when Rentokil publishes 2009 results in February.

The focus will on targeting sustainable organic growth in the group's pests and washrooms divisions.

"They are our biggest businesses, they account for the great majority of our 1,000 branches across the world, so we can get most leverage by focusing on pests and washrooms," said the CEO, who did not rule out small bolt-on acquisitions.

The support services company, which issued a string of profit warnings in 2007 and 2008, said its profit before tax and one-off items was 49.6 million pounds in the three months to Sept. 30.

This was ahead of analysts' consensus forecast of about 46 million pounds and compares with 16.6 million pounds in the same period last year.

The outcome was driven by good progress in fixing the firm's problem businesses, particularly City Link, and no provisions for bad debt in the period versus 6 million pounds in the same period last year.

Revenue fell 3.2 percent at constant currencies to 622.6 million pounds, the same percentage fall as the second quarter, but was up 3.6 percent at actual exchange rates. Some 70 percent of Rentokil's earnings stream is in euros.

City Link made a loss of 1.3 million pounds in the third quarter and Brown forecast it would make a full year operating loss of 7 million pounds, better than previous guidance of a loss of 12 million pounds. In 2008 it made a loss of 43 million pounds.

The CEO estimated City Link would get a 1 million to 2 million pounds profit boost from the recent strike at Royal Mail and forecast the business would be profitable in the fourth quarter and throughout 2010.

Spike In Bed Bug Infestations

Source: cbc.ca

Toronto is experiencing a dramatic spike in the number of bed bug infestations, according to a new report.

The report, funded in part by the city and the Ontario Ministry of Health and Long Term care, found that over an eight-month period in 2008, Toronto Public Health received 1,500 reports of bed bug infestations.

For all of 2003, in comparison, the city’s public health department received 46 such complaints.

The report says a rise in infestations isn’t unique to Toronto — Ontario towns like Ottawa, Owen Sound and London have also been hit. Meanwhile, New York City and even some cities in Australia have reported similar spikes in the past five years.

More than 100 people —including social workers, MPs and landlords — crammed into a conference room at City Hall on Monday to discuss the report’s findings with its authors.

Sean Meagher, one of the authors, blamed the increase of infestations on a lack of awareness of how to deal with bed bugs. He said the problem affects a wide variety of dwellings, from university student dormitories to swanky hotels and low-cost rental housing.

Those who have had to deal with infestations have been hit hard, he said.
“People suffering from bed bugs frequently experience shame, fear, isolation and insomnia,” he said.

“Many face serious economic consequences, including loss of income and loss of work. The cost of eradications can run into the thousands of dollars and the replacement of infested household items are also expensive.”

Meagher said the bugs are notoriously durable.

“Bedbugs can live, breed, hatch and carry out their entire lives while still being exposed to … pesticide used for bed bugs. Bed bugs have even shown resistance to DDT.”

‘Psychologically terrorized’

Toronto resident Fionna Blair is one of the unlucky ones to be hit by an infestation.
Two years ago she started getting mysterious bites. She soon found the culprits — bed bugs in her sofa.

“They hide very well and only come out at night,” she said.
It took lots of money, time and energy spent cleaning, fumigating and even caulking the space between walls and baseboards before Blair got rid of the bed bugs. But even now, she can’t be sure they’re all gone.

“They can stay dormant for a year and a half, so they leave you psychologically terrorized … Perhaps you don’t have them, but perhaps they’re just hibernating until they come out again,” she said.

The problem could get out of hand unless the government steps in to co-ordinate the response to the infestation, said Meagher.

“It will impact all parts of our city. And the failure to act will result in wider infestations and more costly responses. Consistent use of best protocols can and will work, but co-ordination and education are needed to make that possible,” he said.

The problem can only be meaningfully solved, he said, through “extensive public education to ensure early identification and the participation of governments, landlords, medical professionals, institutions, as well as residents.”

Stored Product Pests

Stored product pests infest a wide range of foods including flour, whole grains and seeds, crackers, processed cereals, peas, beans, nuts, dried fruit and spices. Among the common stored product pests are:

Pea Weevil

Larder Beetle

Confused Flour Beetle

Mediterranean Flour Moth

Indian Meal Moth

Drugstore Beetle

Granary Weevil

Saw-toothed Grain Beetle

Yellow Mealworm


Rice Weevil




Correct identification of stored product pests is important in order to know where to apply treatments. Some insects, such as Granary Weevils, spend their entire life cycle in the food, therefore control steps can often be limited to disposing of the infested products.

Others, such as the Mediterranean Flour Moth, leave the food when it is time to pupate. They spin cocoons in the corners of cupboards and cracks, therefore control measures must be planned to take this into account.

Monitoring

Visual Inspections

Storage areas should be inspected carefully for signs of infestations, inside and outside of the packaging or containers. During the inspection, potential problem areas should also be noted. This includes containers of old or stale products, spilled food and hard to clean areas that could provide refuge for insects.

Pheromone Traps

Insect sex pheromones and aggregation pheromones are available for a variety of stored product pests. The pheromones are in lures that can be used in different designs of traps. For stored product moths, the lures are usually placed in delta traps like the one pictured here.

Other trap designs are used for stored product beetles. It should be noted that none of these traps are a means of control but rather just monitoring devices.

Always avoid touching the pheromone lure when setting out the trap because traces of the pheromone can be spread around the area, making the trap ineffective.

Pheromone traps should be placed away from doors and windows to avoid attracting insects from outside and may be hung from the ceiling or placed on a shelf.

Action Decisions

Prevention

For households, once an infestation is cleaned up (see Control below) further infestations can be prevented by:

- freeze grains, flour, dried fruit and other dry foods from bulk food stores in the household freezer for a week before transferring to the cupboard

- store food in insect proof containers of glass or strong plastic with tight fitting lids

- clean kitchen counters and vacuum the insides of cupboards to remove spills and debris

Sanitation

Maintaining clean conditions is the best control. All spills should be cleaned up immediately.

Reduce Humidity

Grains should be stored in a cool dry area. Except for the Mediterranean Flour Moth which can tolerate very dry conditions, most stored product pests are not likely to be a problem in dry conditions, where relative humidity is below 6%.

Barriers

Insect screens should be installed on exhaust fans, windows and other openings to keep flying insects out.

Control

Sanitation measures (discussed above), along with regular visual inspections usually provide sufficient control of stored product pests. In many instances no pesticides will be needed to achieve good control.

Physical Removal

Destroy infested materials. For some species, such as Granary Weevils removing the infested material provides sufficient control as they do not live outside the material.

Heating or Freezing Treatments

Where feasible, extremes of heat or cold can be used to kill insects in infested food. To eliminate an infestation, food should be kept in a freezer long enough to be frozen at the center of the container for at least 4 days.

Heating to 150 degrees Fahrenheit in an oven for 20 minutes also kills insects.

Preferred Pesticides

Sorptive Dusts

Diatomaceous Earth can be applied to cracks and crevices of storage areas where pupae and other stages of some stored product pests hide.

Pyrethrins

Pyrethrins can be applied to equipment motors to kill hiding pests or by ULV machine to storage areas.

Other Pesticides

Other pesticides should not be required for most stored product pests. If required in the case of severe or persistent infestations, pesticides must be chosen with careful attention to label directions. Few pesticide products mention stored product pests on their labels. By law only pesticides labeled for use in the appropriate areas (e.g. food prep and storage ares) and for this group of insects (e.g. stored product pests) can be used.

Practice Your Pest Control Skills

Want to practice your pest control skills? I found this fun little game at Miniclips and had to share it.

Squash those bugs!

Pest Control Use the fly swatter to get rid of all the bugs!

Play this free game now!!

Bird Control For Homeowners

While birds can be enjoyed at times in the park or on the beach, when they get too comfortable where you live, bird control becomes necassary.

Our intentions are not to harm the birds, but rather just control the areas we don't want them living in.

Reasons To Control Birds

• Diseases being passed to employees/customers/residents.
• Money spent on cleaning.
• Damage to building or equipment.
• Dangerous, unsanitary droppings.
• Parasites like mites, fleas, and ticks are getting into the building.
• Drains and gutters are clogged with droppings, nesting materials.
• Health inspectors have issued/may issue us a warning.
• Complaints by customers or tenants.
  

Bird control

Many birds are friends of mankind. You might even build them houses and baths. In exchange some birds eat mosquitoes and other harmful insects. But when birds congregate on buildings, they become nuisances.


Their droppings are not only unsightly, but can harbor bacteria or corrode roofs. Nests can block air vents or present fire hazards.


A professional pest control service can provide products which discourage birds from gathering where they're not wanted. Or, if necessary, they can be trapped and relocated to a more suitable area.


Woodpeckers are a special case. Besides the annoying sound they make, they can destroy wood shingles.


Again, a pest control service is your best bet. They have products which are odorless and invisible, but taste terrible to the woodpeckers. If a woodpecker is attacking your home, it's most likely trying to get at the insects that are inside the wood. A professional pest control service will be able to inspect your home for these pests as well.



HOUSE SPARROWS

House Sparrows are the most abundant songbirds in North America and the most widely distributed birds on the planet. House Sparrows are not actually sparrows, but are Old World Weaver Finches, a family of birds noted for their ingenious nest-building abilities.

STARLINGS

Starlings were brought to North America from Europe in the late 1890s. Since that time, they have greatly increased in number and spread across most of the continent.

Adult starlings are chunky birds the size of robins. In summer their plumage is glossy purple-green with numerous white markings; the bill is yellow.

During the winter, the back feathers are much darker and edged in light brown. The bill also darkens to bluish-black. Color is identical for both sexes. The starling's most prominent feature is an unusually short tail.

Favorite foods include fruits and seeds, both wild and cultivated. Insects and other invertebrates make up about half the diet, especially during the spring breeding season. Wintering flocks often concentrate in great numbers at feedlots and livestock shelters. They consume and contaminate livestock feed and water, and "whitewash" buildings, facilities and animals with their droppings.

In winter, flocks of up to 2,000 birds can consume 1 to 2 tonnes of feed in a month and contaminate or spoil an additional 500 to 1,000 kg of feed. Starlings can also transfer many diseases between livestock animals, particularly swine.

PIGEONS

Pigeons have become an urban bird, and highly depended on humans for food, roosting and nesting areas. Pigeons are most commonly found around feeding areas, parks, schools, city buildings, bridges, homes, and many other structures.

Prevention

The removal of roosting niches and the sealing of any crevices, large openings, and entrances in high areas aids in effective control.

Available water sources, such as rooftop air conditioners, should be eliminated by screening.

Never leave food or water sources exposed outdoors.

Keep garbage containers closed.

Dispose of garbage on a regular basis.

Control

Physical Exclusion:

Netting is the best single method of reducing bird roosting, nesting and feeding. not subject to bird acclimation (i.e. they can't "get used to it") It is economically feasible over life of netting; best of all neighbours love nets compared to other bird scaring methods; There is significant cost outlay at first with on-going operating and maintenance costs.


Spike strips and wires are popular methods to prevent bird roosting on ledges. The are relatively inexpensive and not difficult to install but if not properly located they are useless.

Sound Devices:

Propane cannons, whistling or pyrotechnic pistols, predator mimicking sound generators can be effective for farm crop and fruit damaging birds , but not suitable in urban applications.

Visual Devices:

Streamers and flashtape, Scare-eye balloons

These devices can be effective on some species but not effective on robins or waxwings; cheap, relatively easy to install but are useless if not installed and maintained properly.

Hawk silhouettes, stuffed owls, etc: more realistic units on market now; cheap and easy to deploy but areonly effective for a short period of time and require very frequent moving.

Flashing Lights And Mirrors:

These are effective against starlings; solar powered units are available that require little maintenance besides frequent moving around. Lights are good at dusk and dawn only; mirrors are only good in sunshine

Trapping:

Traps can be made or purchased. Although trapping is a slow and expensive process, it is an effective means of controlling the pigeon population in a given area. Rooftops, common roosting areas, and feeding areas are generally good places for trapping.

Small traps are effective, but large walk-in types are better. It is important to bait the traps with the kind of food the birds are eating. Whole corn and grain sorghum are generally good baits.

Nearly constant maintenance of traps is needed to separate and release within 24 hours all migratory birds and non-nuisance birds.

The responsible person must understand and comply with applicable directives under the Fish and Wildlife Conservation Act.

American crows, brown-headed cowbirds, red-winged blackbirds, common grackles, starlings and house sparrows may be trapped and killed but it will not greatly affect local bird numbers.

Falconry:

This is an effective control if there is sustained activity in a large area. It is not suitable for most urban bird pest problems.Birds of prey are not pets and require significant investment in time and training for falconers. If hiring a service a long-term commitment is necessary and can be expensive.

Wasp & Hornet Control

Wasp and Hornet Control

Wasps come in many types and sizes. The ones that are of most concern to people because of their stinging habits are yellowjackets and hornets. Their social organizations range from cooperative fertile female paper wasps to the caste system of yellowjackets, in which there is a single fertile queen and a large population of smaller unmated females. Some social wasps are predators for most or all of the year and provide a great benefit by killing large numbers of plant-feeding insects and nuisance flies; others are exclusively scavengers. Yellow jackets will also forage on foods that people eat, especially sweets and meats.Due to their size and coloration these wasps are often mistaken for bees. Bees are not nearly as aggressive and are valued as major pollinators as well as honey producers.

All wasps will defend their nests, but the Yellow Jackets and hornets are the most aggressive. They can be distinguished from bees by their thin "waists." Bees are thick-waisted. They fold their wings lengthwise when at rest. The yellow jacket colony will remain active for only one summer, after which the queens will fly away to start more colonies. The remaining ones, die at the end of the summer, the nest is not reused.

Wasps become a problem only when they threaten to sting humans. One of the most troublesome of the social wasps is the yellowjacket. Yellowjackets, especially ground- and cavity-nesting ones such as the western yellowjacket, tend to defend their nests vigorously when disturbed. Defensive behavior increases as the season progresses and colony populations become larger while food becomes scarcer. In fall, foraging yellowjackets are primarily scavengers and they start to show up at picnics, barbecues, around garbage cans, at dishes of dog or cat food placed outside, and where ripe or overripe fruit are accessible. At certain times and places, the number of scavenger wasps can be quite large.

IDENTIFICATION AND LIFE CYCLE

Yellowjackets are by far the most troublesome group. Paper wasps are much less defensive and rarely sting humans. They tend to shy away from human activity except when their nests are located near doors, windows, or other high traffic areas.
Nests of both yellowjacket and paper wasps typically are begun in spring by a single queen who overwinters and becomes active when the weather warms. She emerges in late winter/early spring to feed and start a new nest. From spring to midsummer nests are in the growth phase, and the larvae require large amounts of protein. Workers forage mainly for protein at this time (usually in the form of other insects) and for some sugars. By late summer, however, the colonies grow more slowly or cease growth and require large amounts of sugar to maintain the queen and workers. So foraging wasps are particularly interested in sweet things at this time. Normally, yellowjacket and paper wasp colonies only live one season.

Yellowjackets

The term yellowjacket refers to a number of different species of wasps in the genera Vespula and Dolichovespula (family Vespidae). Included in this group of ground-nesting species are the western yellowjacket, Vespula pensylvanica, which is the most commonly encountered species and is sometimes called the "meat bee," and seven other species of Vespula. Vespula vulgaris is common in rotted tree stumps at higher elevations and V. germanica (the German yellowjacket) is becoming more common in many urban areas, where it frequently nests in houses. These wasps tend to be medium sized and black with jagged bands of bright yellow on the abdomen, and have a very short, narrow waist (the area where the thorax attaches to the abdomen).

Nests are commonly built in rodent burrows, but other protected cavities, like voids in walls and ceilings of houses, sometimes are selected as nesting sites. Colonies, which are begun each spring by a single reproductive female, can reach populations of between 1,500 and 15,000 individuals, depending on the species. The wasps build a nest of paper made from fibers scraped from wood mixed with saliva. It is built as multiple tiers of vertical cells, similar to nests of paper wasps, but enclosed by a paper envelope around the outside that usually contains a single entrance hole. If the rodent hole is not spacious enough, yellowjackets will increase the size by moistening the soil and digging. Similar behavior inside a house sometimes leads to a wet patch that develops into a hole in a wall or ceiling.

Immature yellowjackets are white, grublike larvae that become white pupae. The pupae develop adult coloring just before they emerge as adult wasps. Immatures are not normally seen unless the nest is torn open or a sudden loss of adult caretakers leads to an exodus of starving larvae.

Aerial-nesting yellowjackets build paper nests that are attached to the eaves of a building or are hanging from the limb of a tree. The entrance is normally a hole at the bottom of the nest. These aerial nesters are extremely defensive when their nests are disturbed and sometimes bite and/or sting, simultaneously. Wasp stingers have no barbs and can be used repeatedly, especially when the wasp gets inside clothing.

Paper Wasps

Paper wasps such as Polistes fuscatus aurifer, P. apachus, and P. dominulus are large (1-inch long), slender wasps with long legs and a distinct, slender waist. Background colors vary, but most western species tend to be golden brown, or darker, with large patches of yellow or red. Preferring to live in or near orchards or vineyards, they hang their paper nests in protected areas, such as under eaves, in attics, or under tree branches or vines. Each nest hangs like an open umbrella from a pedicel (stalk) and has open cells that can be seen from beneath the nest. White, legless, grublike larvae sometimes can be seen from below. Paper wasp nests rarely exceed the size of an outstretched hand and populations vary between 15 to 200 individuals. Most species are relatively unaggressive, but they can be a problem when they nest over doorways or in other areas of human activity, such as fruit trees.

Mud Daubers

Mud daubers are black and yellow, thread-waisted, solitary wasps that build a hard mud nest, usually on ceilings and walls, attended by a single female wasp. They are not social wasps but may be confused with them. They do not defend their nests and rarely sting. During winter, you can safely remove the nests without spraying.

INJURY OR DAMAGE

Concern about yellowjackets is based on their persistent, pugnacious behavior around food sources and their aggressive colony defense. Stinging behavior is usually encountered at nesting sites, but scavenging yellowjackets sometimes will sting if someone tries to swat them away from a potential food source. When scavenging at picnics or other outdoor meals, wasps will crawl into soda cans and cause stings on the lips, or inside the mouth or throat.
Responses to wasp stings vary from only short-term, intense sensations to substantial swelling and tenderness, some itching, or life-threatening allergic responses. Of specific concern is a condition that results from multiple-sting encounters, sometimes unfamiliar to attending health professionals, that is induced by the volume of foreign protein injected and the tissue damage caused by destructive enzymes in wasp venom. Red blood cells and other tissues in the body become damaged; tissue debris and other breakdown products are carried to the kidneys, to be eliminated from the body. Too much debris and waste products can cause blockages in the kidneys, resulting in renal insufficiency or renal failure. Patients in this condition require medical intervention, even dialysis.

MANAGEMENT

Most social wasps provide an extremely beneficial service by eliminating large numbers of other pest insects through predation and should be protected and encouraged to nest in areas of little human or animal activity. Although many animals prey on social wasps (including birds, reptiles, amphibians, skunks, bears, raccoons, spiders, preying mantids, and bald-faced hornets), none provides satisfactory biological control in home situations.

The best way to prevent unpleasant encounters with social wasps is to avoid them. If you know where they are, try not to go near their nesting places. Wasps can become very defensive when their nest is disturbed. Be on the lookout for nests when outdoors. Wasps that are flying directly in and out of a single location are probably flying to and from their nest.

Scavenging wasps will not usually become a problem if there is no food around to attract them. When nuisance wasps are present in the outdoor environment, keep foods (including pet food) and drinks covered or inside the house and keep garbage in tightly sealed garbage cans. Once food is discovered by wasps, they will continue to hunt around that location long after the source has been removed.

If wasp nests must be eliminated, it is easiest and safest to call for professional help.
If a rapid solution to a severe yellowjacket problem is essential, seek the assistance of a professional pest control operator who can use microencapsulated baits to control these pests. Do-it-yourself options include trapping wasps in a baited trap designed for that purpose, early-season removal of nests, or spraying the nest or nesting site with an insecticide labeled for that use.

Trapping Wasps

Trapping wasps is an ongoing effort that needs to be initiated in spring and continued into summer and fall, especially when the yellowjacket population was large the previous year. In spring there is a 30- to 45-day period when new queens first emerge before they build nests.

Trapping queens during this period has the potential to provide an overall reduction in the yellowjacket population for the season. The more traps put out in spring on an area-wide basis to trap queens, the greater the likelihood of reducing nests later in the summer. Usually one trap per acre is adequate in spring for depletion trapping of queens; in fall, more traps may be necessary to trap scavenging wasps, depending on the size of the population. There are two types of wasp traps: lure and water traps.

Lure Traps.Lure traps are available for purchase at many retail stores that sell pest control supplies and are easiest to use. They work best as queen traps in late winter and spring. In summer and fall they may assist in reducing localized foraging workers, but they do not eliminate large populations. Lure traps contain a chemical that attracts yellowjackets into the traps, but common lures such as heptyl butyrate are not equally attractive to all species.

Proteins such as lunchmeat can be added as an attractant and are believed to improve catches.
During spring, baited lure traps should have the chemical bait changed every 6 to 8 weeks. In summer, change the bait every 2 to 4 weeks; change bait more frequently when temperatures are high. Meats must be replaced more frequently because yellowjackets are not attracted to rotting meat. Also, periodically check the trap to remove trapped yellowjackets and make sure workers are still attracted to the trap.

Water Traps. Water traps are generally homemade and consist of a 5-gallon bucket, string, and protein bait (turkey ham, fish, or liver works well; do not use cat food because it may repel the yellowjackets after a few days). The bucket is filled with soapy water and the protein bait is suspended 1 to 2 inches above the water. (The use of a wide mesh screen over the bucket will help prevent other animals from reaching and consuming the bait.) After the yellowjacket removes the protein, it flies down and becomes trapped in the water and drowns. Like the lure trap, these traps also work best as queen traps in late winter to early spring. In summer and fall they may assist in reducing localized foraging workers but usually not to acceptable levels. Place them away from patio or picnic areas so wasps aren't attracted to your food as well.

Discouraging or Eliminating NestsEarly in the season, knocking down newly started paper wasp nests will simply cause the founding female to go elsewhere to start again or to join a neighboring nest as a worker. As there is little activity around wasp nests when they are first starting, they are very hard to find. Wasps are more likely to be noticed later after nests and populations grow.

Nest removal for controlling subterranean or cavity-dwelling yellowjackets is not practical because the nests are underground or otherwise inaccessible.

Nest SpraysAerosol formulations of insecticides on the market labeled for use on wasp and hornet nests can be effective against both yellowjackets and paper wasps, but they must be used with extreme caution. Wasps will attack applicators when sensing a poison applied to their nests, and even the freeze-type products are not guaranteed to stop all wasps that come flying out. It is prudent to wear protective clothing that covers the whole body, including gloves and a veil over the face. In addition, you need to wear protective eyewear and other clothing to protect yourself from pesticide hazards. Wasps are most likely to be in the nest at night. But even after dark and using formulations that shoot an insecticide stream up to 20 feet, stinging incidents are likely. Underground nests can be quite a distance from the visible entrance and the spray may not get back far enough to hit the wasps. Partially intoxicated, agitated wasps are likely to be encountered at some distance from the nest entrance, even on the day following an insecticidal treatment. Hiring a pest control professional will reduce risks to you and your family. Add this page to your list of favorite web sites.

SOCIAL WASPS

YellowjacketsDescription: 12-17.5 mm in length; head, thorax, and abdomen black and yellow or white; body fairly stout; wings smoky.
Life cycle: In the spring the fertilized female builds a small nest and begins laying eggs. She tends to the resulting larvae until the first brood matures into female workers, which rear consequent larvae and extend the nest. As many as several thousand workers may be produced in a colony in one season. Males develop from unfertilized eggs toward the end of summer and mate. At the onset of cold weather all the wasps, including the old queen, die except young mated females which over winter among leaf litter or in soil.

Habitat: They usually nest underground in an old rodent burrow, beneath a landscape timber, or in a rock wall or wall of a building, or at ground level in fallen logs and tree stumps. In urban settings they can also be found under stairs, in fence posts, brick walls and discarded mattresses, carpets, boxes, etc. The German yellowjackets are often found nesting in wall voids, attics, or crawl spaces. Whether in the ground or within a wall void, the yellowjackets nests are made of wood pulp and saliva used to form layers of cells encased in a protective paper covering.
Food: Adults feed on nectar and other insects, larvae are provided with pre-chewed insects and pieces of meat. Adults can become pests around outdoor eating areas and garbage cans because they are always scavenging for food scrapes. They also forage for sources of sugars or other carbohydrates, such as beer, fruit, and sweet beverages. As the new queens are produced in the colony in late summer, they demand sugars from the workers, which the forage aggressively for sources of sugar. They are very aggressive and will sting repeatedly at the least provocation.

Bald-faced Hornets

Description: 16-20mm in length; body stout with black and ivory white markings on the face, thorax, abdomen, and first antennal segment; wings smoky. These are not true hornets but are members of the wasp family.

Life cycle: In the spring females construct small pendant nests with a few cells and begin laying eggs. The first brood matures into female workers, which feed the larvae several times a day and continue nest expansion. In the late summer males develop out of unfertilized eggs and mate. Only young mated females survive the winter to start the cycle again in the spring.

Habitat: Gardens, parkland, meadows, and forest edges. Nests are constructed out of wood pulp and saliva and attached to branches in the open. They consist of many layers of cells encased in protective paper with an opening at the bottom. The nest resembles a large inverted teardrop shaped ball, and can contain thousands of wasps, which are extremely aggressive when disturbed.

Food: Adults consume fruit, nectar and other insects; larvae are fed pre-chewed insects.
MORE INFORMATION ON BALDFACED HORNETS: The Bald faced hornet (Dolichovespula maculata) is sometimes called the white-faced hornet, but is actually a yellowjacket. It's easy to spot since it's our only black and white yellow jacket. Its nest is a gray "paper" envelope with several layers of combs inside. A mature nest can be bigger than a basketball, but pear-shaped, with the larger end at the top and an entrance hole near the bottom. A single, over-wintering queen begins building the nest in the spring. She lays eggs and tends the first batch of larvae that develop into workers. These workers tend new larvae and expand the nest throughout the summer. A mature colony can have several hundred workers by the end of the summer. In fall, workers die and next year's queens find over-wintering sites. Baldfaced hornets are beneficial, capturing insects (often including other yellowjackets) to feed to their larvae. Though larger than other yellowjackets, Baldfaced hornets are generally more docile. But they can become aggressive and will sting when their nest is disturbed or threatened. A Baldfaced nest is usually constructed high in a tree. In these cases the nest is best left alone. In fact, Baldfaced hornet nests are often first noticed in fall when leaves drop, exposing the nest. By this time the hornets are dead or dying, and the nest will not be reused. Occasionally you will find a Baldfaced nest built on the side of a building, in low shrubbery, or even in an attic or shed. Nests in these sites will probably need to be eliminated.

Solitary Wasps

The family Sphecidae is made up of a large variety of solitary hunting wasps. There are about 1200 species in North America, many of which are common. They feed upon spiders or insects such as aphids, caterpillars and cicadas. The hunting wasps feed this prey to their young, which develop in separate nests in the ground, natural openings or in cell constructed out of mud, like the mud daubers. The hunting wasps do not live in colonies but often may nest together in large numbers at a site. The solitary hunting wasps often are rather fearsome looking but rarely sting and do so only if handled. Most of these wasps are beneficial predators of pest species and do not require control.

Black-and-yellow Mud Dauber

Description: 25-30 mm in length; long cylindrical one segmented "waist" (pedicel) between thorax and abdomen; body black with large yellow area on prothorax; yellow pattern on thorax, pedicel, and 1st segment of abdomen; legs mostly yellow; wings brown-black.

Life cycle: Solitary female builds a nest out of moist mud containing several parallel cell rows. A paralyzed spider is stuffed into each cell and one egg deposited on each spider. The female then closes the cell opening with mud. Hatching larvae slowly consume the spiders after which they pupate inside the cell. Males are rarely seen before midsummer and feed on nectar.

Habitat: Rock faces, under rocks, overhanging roofs, attics and other structures.

Food: Adults feed on nectar, larvae feed on provided spiders.

CONTROL

Unless wasps, hornets, and yellow jackets become a threat we urge you to leave them alone. They play an important role in the ecological balance of your backyard, neighborhood and local community.
Yellowjackets and hornets are outside the nest during the daylight hours. Nearly the entire colony is in the nest during the evening and nighttime hours, although some workers may be stranded away from the nest and will not return until morning. Control measures for hornets and yellowjackets should be attempted during the nighttime hours when the whole colony is in or on the nest.

There are many insecticides labeled for controlling wasps, when applied into or onto the nest. The difficulty involves making the treatment without being stung. If applications must be made during the day, protective equipment such as boots, heavy coveralls, veiled headwear, and heavy gloves should be worn. This equipment should be carefully secured in such a fashion that wasps can not slip under cuffs or other areas of the clothing. Use plenty of masking tape wrapped around the bottoms of pant legs and sleeves and around the collar.
An aerosol spray of one of the many fast-acting wasp killer aerosols will quickly kill most workers present in ariel nests.

The most difficult problems in wasp control are generally those that involve large aerial nests of yellowjackets or bald-faced hornets and ground or structural nests of yellowjackets. Control of aerial nests of hornets and yellowjackets should be attempted only while wearing a full set of protective equipment. Direct the spray into the hole at the bottom of the nest, being careful not to break open the side of the nest. Within a few hours, or certainly by the next day, all the colony members should be killed by this initial application.

Control of ground-nesting yellowjacket nests is best done at night for safety reasons. The nest entrance should be located during the daytime and marked in some way for easy and precise location in the evening. When the nest is approached at night, it is a good idea to have the available light (spotlight or flashlight) set and focused on the nest from a distance, off to the side. Do not hold it in your hand, because it may attract attacking workers. It is safest to wear protective clothing. Approach the nest slowly and carefully.

The quickest and surest way to kill the colony is with insecticide dust. The only product registered for wasp control in The United States is sold only to certified applicators. Dust will travel deeper into the void, in the ground or wall, than will an aerosol wasp killer.
Mud daubers are not aggressive about defending nests under construction. However, protective clothing should be worn. A residual insecticide liquid or dust application to the mud nests and the surfaces in the immediate area will provide effective control. Then, scrape away and remove the nests, if possible.

If you are allergic or hypersensitive to wasp or bee stings you should not attempt to control these insects and should call a professional pest control company. Or if you do not have the proper equipment call a professional pest control company.

Wasp Traps (Make your own traps)

Keeps yellow jackets away from desired area( however will not kill out the entire colony). Safe. Non toxic. Traps place and maintained in the early spring will help to severely reduce the yellow jacket population in the fall. For every female you capture in the early spring, that will eliminate a yellow jacket nest of 500 to 5,000. Fruit juice or meat are lures that work well. Placement of the trap:
1. Place traps away from all human activity.
2. Hang traps 2-4 feet above ground.
3. Yellow Jacket Traps should be baited and placed either early morning or late evening when the yellow jackets are least likely to be active.
4. Place traps in sunny areas when temperature is below 80-85 degrees F. Place traps in shaded area when temperature is above 85 degrees F.
5. If Yellow Jacket catch is low, relocate the trap. Leave trap in an area for at least 2 days.
Maintenance:
1. Before emptying traps, make sure all yellow jackets are dead.
2. If live yellow jackets are present, they must be killed before opening the trap by : a. Pouring soapy water into the trap or b. Placing entire trap in a freezer for 48 hours.
.3. Trap should be emptied and cleaned every 3-4 weeks. Traps must be kept clean.

Hints: Only the fertilized female yellow jacket survives over winter. All males die during the winter. This may be the reason they are so aggressive in the early fall and know this is their last "Hoorah".
When fertilized females emerge from hibernation in early spring, she needs protein to nurse her young offspring. To start with she is a single mom doing it all until she can raise some workers.

Outdoor events wasp control

Late-summer and fall yellowjackets are much tougher to eliminate. Yellowjackets can be foraging from dozens of hidden nests in the area, each nest containing thousands of workers, and they may come from nests 1,000 ft. or more away.

Yellowjackets change their feeding behavior in late summer. No longer the beneficial, insect-eating predators they were in the spring and summer, they have become freeloaders — scavenging on fruits, ice cream, beer and soft drinks. They are aggressive and willing to sting.

Yellowjacket management at parks, festivals, football games and similar outdoor events can be the worst job of all. The sheer numbers of yellowjackets can be intimidating. And there is so much sweet, rich food to attract them.

IPM now prevents trouble laterYou can often avoid severe yellowjacket problems in the fall by eliminating workers and nests in late spring and summer, when yellowjacket workers are few and their nests are still small.

Monitoring is the key. Monitoring — documented and systematic inspections at regular intervals — is a critical part of IPM, and essential for yellowjacket management.

Check around a property frequently. Look for yellowjacket nests or foraging yellowjackets. Install a few yellowjacket traps (how many will depend on the area) and check them at each visit. Check the traps weekly or biweekly in July and August, if possible, because this is the critical period to head off fall problems.
If the traps begin catching yellowjackets, place enough additional traps that they become control tools, reducing the numbers of yellowjacket workers. See if you can track foraging workers back to their nests. Mark all the nests you find, and come back at night to destroy the nests when most of the yellowjackets are inside.

Do not quit when you find a yellowjacket nest; there may be many more. Keep monitoring and keep looking.

Using traps for control:Trapping will not eliminate yellowjackets. But aggressive trapping — using lots and lots of traps — will significantly reduce the number of fall foraging yellowjackets and the risk of stings.

You can choose from many different commercial yellowjacket traps. Some are disposable; most come with bait or bait enhancers. Some drown the trapped yellowjackets; others hold them until they die from heat or until you kill them.
Not all yellowjacket species respond equally well to all traps or all baits. Different colonies of the same species will even exhibit preference differences. The time of the year also affects bait choice.

Experiment with different baits and traps to find the most suitable one for a particular site. Place traps according to the manufacturer’s directions. Do not stint; you need lots of traps to get effective population reduction.
Sanitation’s roleForaging yellowjackets are attracted to areas where food is readily available.

Their numbers and the risk of stings can be reduced, sometimes quite significantly, simply by changing trash and food management practices.
Although yellowjackets are not the first pest to come to mind when thinking IPM, they are actually very susceptible to the IPM approach. Fall yellowjacket problems at outdoor events, in fact, can only be successfully managed through IPM. Insecticides alone will have little effect.

Rat Control

Rat Control






Rats spread disease and can cause serious damage to your home's structure. Learn how to tackle these uninvited pests with the following tips:





How do I identify a rat?

The Norway rat or sewer rat is classified as a rodent. They measure about 25cm (excluding the tail) and have an average weight of 335g. The colour of their fur is brown, grey or less commonly black. Rats are nocturnal, although they can sometimes be seen during the day. They are active burrowers, good climbers and reasonably good swimmers (often leading to confusion with water voles). They have poor eyesight and are colour blind, but have acute hearing and a good sense of smell and taste.

Rats are capable of reproducing at 3-4 months old, and can have 3-6 litters per year, depending upon food availability and location. The litter size can be around 6-11 young, with a lifespan of between 12-19 months. It is said that there are 5 rats for every human being on the earth, which means you're no more than 15 metres from one at any given time. If you live in New York, this figure rises to a rat proximity of 5 metres.


Where do rats live?

Although rats are found in most parts of the world, it's believed they spread by ship from Eastern Asia. They are mainly found in close contact with human beings.
Rats generally move to buildings in autumn and winter for shelter and food; they're often found in warehouses, farms and roof spaces of houses. In summer they return to the open countryside to feed on growing vegetation. If food is available at a site all year round however, such as on farms or urban refuse tips, the rats will attempt to stay on site permanently. Within these habitats, they burrow into earth banks, compost heaps and the structure of buildings and sewers. They also inhabit undisturbed storage areas such as haystacks and tyre heaps or pallets, especially if these areas are close to food.


Favourite habitats:


Outside:

-Under wood piles or lumber that is not being used often

-Under bushes and vines and in tall thick grass

-In appliances and old furniture that is left outside and is not being used

-In and around garbage and trash that has been left out

-In holes or gaps under buildings




Inside:

-Inside the insulation of walls or ceilings

-In or behind cupboards, counters and bathtubs

-Near the boiler

-In basements or attics where things like cardboard and cloth are stored




What do rats eat?

The type of food favoured by the common rat is cereal, but being survivors, they are known to eat anything, including each other. Rats need to continuously gnaw in order to file down their teeth.

On average, they consume 25-30g of food and drink approximately 60ml of water per day.

When in the house, they eat anything not sealed in an air tight container. They can eat most food stored in paper, plastic or cardboard containers.


What attracts rats?


The following outlines the main attractions to rats:
-Uncollected garbage and debris

-Food for pets and birds that has been left out and not eaten

-Fruits and berries that have fallen to the ground

-Compost pile that is not taken care of in the correct way

-Dog droppings




How do I know if I have a rat problem?

The most common signs are rat droppings (typically 12mm long) found near food sources, along with evidence of gnawing, burrows, nests and greasy rub marks along walls/ floors.


Are rats harmful?

Yes. Rats contaminate everything they encounter with droppings, urine and hairs. They carry a wide range of diseases and parasites that are harmful to humans and animals. In particular around 20% of rats carry Leptospirosis, or Weil's disease, which can be fatal to humans. Other diseases, such as Toxoplasmosis and Salmonella, affect both humans and animals.

Another significant problem is the considerable structural damage rats can cause from their gnawing and burrowing activities. This ranges from minor holes in walls/doors/furniture/cupboards to structural collapse, flooding, electrical faults and fire (they gnaw through cables).


How can I prevent having rats in my home?

Preventative measures are important, otherwise the underlying causes of a rat problem will remain, inevitably causing re-infestation to occur. Since rats can squeeze through a hole the size of a thumb, ensure you thoroughly block the openings in your home where they tend to gain entrance. Spray foam, chicken wire and cement are examples of solutions for this purpose. The following measures act as deterrents:

• Keep food in food in rodent proof containers.


• Cover holes/gaps in walls and around pipes.


• Fix a bristle strip to the bottom of doors. This can be bought at your local DIY store.


• Use thin wire mesh to cover ventilation holes.


• Place wire balloons (less than $2 from builders' supply store) in the top of drain pipes.


• Fit cone guards to the bottom of drain pipes to prevent them from crawling up.


• Dispose of rubbish and clear up spillages.


• Don't leave food lying around either inside or outside your home.


• Clear up fallen fruit from trees and leftover bird food in your garden.


• If you regularly find litter around your home from local shops, call your local council to arrange for them to clear it up.


• Stack wood 18 inches off the ground.


• Make sure birdhouses and trays are out of reach.


• Keep garbage lids closed.


• When planting bushes make sure they're at least 3 feet from your house.


• Short, tidy vegetation in your garden exposes rats to predators (in fact, encouraging predators, particularly cats, may provide additional protection).


• Keep yards and alleys clean.


• Don't compost any animal products (fish, meat, cheese or butter).
  

How do I get rid of rats?

Despite good standards of hygiene and proofing, infestations sometimes occur. When this happens it's important to act fast, since the longer you leave it, the greater and more costly your problem becomes - a pair of rats can start a colony that produces up to 800 babies a year.

If you decide to tackle the problem yourself, first identify where the rats are living, feeding and drinking, as well as the routes they take between these areas. Look for holes, burrows, droppings and footprints. Find out how they're getting into your home by blocking any holes with newspaper (or similar) and coming back a day later to see which holes have been re-opened. You can then permanently block these access points.

The following options will help you tackle the problem:


Chemicals for rat removal:

Be aware that this method involves rodenticides/ poisons which are also toxic to humans and animals. Take care to read the product label before use and follow the label instructions. Another concern with this option is that the rats may die in hard to reach areas of your home, preventing you from disposing of them.


Traps for rat removal:

These come in various sizes and forms, such as glue traps. They're environmentally friendly, widely available and effective if placed in the right locations. The drawbacks are that this method can be cruel to the rodent and you may have to kill it yourself once it's caught. You will also need to dispose of the rat.



Electronic rat removal:

This is a non-toxic way of killing rats. They are attracted to the unit using peanut butter placed inside the trap - a footplate is depressed once they enter which triggers an electric volt. The trap is designed so that there's no need to touch a dead body, you simply empty the trap into a bin.
For more humane solutions, there are the following options:


Cage Traps for rat removal:

The device captures the rats for release elsewhere. The drawback is that the rats could become a problem in another home - beware the saying: 'What goes around comes around'!


Repeller & Ultrasonic Devices for rat removal:

For an outdoor deterrent, a Repeller can be used. It has a motion detector which when triggered by movement emits a powerful burst of water, harmlessly scaring the rats away. This device may give your pets a slight scare however.

While there are many options to help you rid your property of rats, be aware that rats are not highly inquisitive and trapping requires expertise. Ultrasonic devices don't work and rats are becoming immune to weaker DIY products. If you've tried to tackle the infestation yourself without success, or if you simply don't want to take care of the problem yourself, contact a professional pest control company.

Silverfish & Firebrat Removal

Silverfish Appearance

Silverfish are about 1/2 inch long, with a uniform silvery color over the upper surface. Their bodies are long and slender, flattened. The bodies are broad at the front, and gradually tapering toward the rear.They can be found almost anywhere, but prefer damp, moderate temperature places such as basements, laundry rooms, and under sinks.

Silverfish Biology and Habits

Silverfish prefer a dark, moist environment and require a large supply of starchy foods or molds.
Silverfish are considered to be nuisance pests that can feed on wallpaper pastes, natural textiles, books, and papers.

Silverfish also feed on mold or fungi that can grow on various surfaces.

They are fast-moving and can travel throughout buildings. Once silverfish find a good source of food, however, they stay close to it.

Silverfish go through only a three stage life cycle called gradual metamorphosis, while many insects have a four stage life cycle (complete metamorphosis). Silverfish may lay eggs at any time during the year, and take 19-43 days to hatch. The life cycle from silverfish egg to adult is three to four months. They prefer humid areas (75 to 97% humidity), like bathrooms and moderate temperatures (70o to 80o F).

Silverfish are found in basements, kitchens, sinks, bathtubs, in bookcases, on closet shelves, behind baseboards, wallpaper, window or door frames, wall voids, and sub-floor areas.

Silverfish are active at night or are active in dark places found throughout the structure.

Silverfish can be a problem year round.

Attics are a favorite place for silverfish due to the abundant food sources due to the recycled blown in paper insulation and storage boxes.

You may see silverfish trapped in sinks and bathtubs because they enter seeking moisture and are unable to climb a slick vertical surface to escape.


Symptoms and Damage of Silverfish:

Silverfish are found in basements, kitchens, sinks, bathtubs, in bookcases, on closet shelves, behind baseboards, wallpaper, window or door frames, wall voids, and sub-floor areas.

Because they molt during their adult lives their cast skins may be a useful detection too.
Silverfish diets are high in protein, sugar, or starch, including cereals, moist wheat flour, starch in book bindings, and paper on which there is glue or paste.
Silverfish can damage book bindings, wallpaper, paper goods and dry foods. They may eat holes, irregular shaped in the wallpaper to get to the paste. Silverfish may bite very small holes in various fabrics, including cotton, linen, and silk, even though they cannot digest either linen or cotton.

Firebrats will feed extensively on rayon, whereas silverfish usually damage it only slightly.

They may leave a yellowish stain on fabric.

Outside, they may be found in nest of insects, birds, mammals, and under tree bark and mulch

They can be found in wood shingles or sidings on houses, they may enter the home from these.


RECOMMENDED MEASURES FOR SILVERFISH CONTROL:
How to Get Rid of and Kill Silverfish

Sources of any undue moisture, such as faulty plumbing or condensation that provide the humidity favored by these pests should be eliminated. Dehumidifying reduces the moisture content of the air that these insects find essential. Some methods for dehumidifying include:

Mend leaking pipes. Ventilate closed rooms and attics. Eliminate standing water. Use a dehumidifier an air conditioner. Use silica gel which acts like a desiccant such as DRIONE DUST. Regularly vacuuming cracks and crevices with a narrow vacuum tip also can be a good method to physically remove these insects from their harborages. Removal of food sources , stored in tight containers. If you have a problem of silverfish inside your home, a good residual perimeter treatment of:
Cyonara 9.7 or Demon WP /Cyper WP insecticide

These residual insecticides, sprayed around entry points and foundation of the house would be the first step. Spray along the foundational wall, with a two or three foot band. Cyonara 9.7, Demon WP/Cyper WP : last for two to three months. All these products are odorless. The wettable powder (WP) formulation in the Demon WP and Cyper WP will leave a slight film that can be seen against dark surfaces. The Cyonara 9.7 does not leave a film. However if you have a more severe problem with silverfish , look into stored boxes and the insulation in your attic. It is best to dust or bait these areas for greater control. When you use baits or dusts, you do want to get it as close as possible to their habitats to be effective. You never want to bait and dust in areas that are visible. Dust needs to be in hidden areas such as : Attics-Insulation, Behind
Refrigerators and Ovens, Boxes, Light fixtures, Electrical outlets, Under siding, etc.

A recommended dust for silverfish control would be ECO PCO DX DUST. It is a botaniacal/pyrethrin dust that last for 6 months. Apply it in the attic in the insulation area in particular, under siding, in storage boxes,light fixtures, electrical outlets. Apply it to areas that can be kept dry. An easy way to apply ECO PCO DX Dust, if broadcasting in the insulation area would be the use of a duster called the DUSTIN MIZER,cranking out a large amount of dust at a time. You will want one lb. of dust per 800-1000 sq. ft. For smaller dust jobs BELLOWS 8 OZ. DUSTER would work fine.

Another very effective way is the use of baits in the attic or on the outside for silverfish control. INTICE GRANULAR BAITS(SAME ACTIVE INGREDIENT AS NIBAN) works very well against silverfish as well as roaches and crickets. It can be sprinkled out in a self contained one lb. bag, in all the areas you believe they are hiding. You can also you a residual aerosol like D-FORCE HPX with a crack and crevice tip, enabling you to get behind baseboards and corners of traveling paths of the silverfish. This type of aerosol is very helpful in bathrooms where silverfish like to eat the back of wallpaper. SILVERFISH PAKS are designed to go inside. These Paks destroy these year-round pests that eat wool, paper, linen and cellulose materials. Place odorless, wafer-thin packets under rugs, behind curtains, in closets and dark hidden places . Place away from children and pets. Niban/Intice and Silverfish Paks both are designed to attract the silverfish as they eat, functioning as long term baits. If you do not know the exact location of the habitat of the silverfish and cannot treat it directly, baits are ideal for silverfish control.

*** Silverfish Paks is an excellent product to accompany a through spraying and/or dusting. It is not advised as a stand alone treatment.